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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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A brief history of pasta – Part 2

To part 1 of the history of pasta When I published two macaroni recipes from World War I, I also added a page on the recent history of the production of macaronipasta. This page can be considered as the ‘prequel’ of that history section: pasta and macaroni from the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century….

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Filed Under: Technique, Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2017Laatste wijziging 15 February 2020

Lucanian sausages

Straight to the recipe An ancient Roman delicacy In June 2012 I gave a talk aboutĀ RomanĀ Food at theĀ Roman FestivalĀ in Nijmegen, the Netherlands. This inspired me to try my hand at preparing Lucanicae, one of the recipes forĀ sausagesĀ in the Roman cookery bookĀ De re coquinaria. I have written more on this book in my notes on other…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: garum, rue, pork Gepubliceerd op 28 June 2012Laatste wijziging 2 February 2020

Medieval stuffed chicken

Straight to the recipe Pullis iuvenis in tempore estivali This summer I was experimenting with roasting whole chickens on the barbecue, so of course I searched for a medieval recipe too. That was easy, in medieval cuisine roast fowl is standard fare for nobles, and I chose a recipe from theĀ Tractatus de modo preparandi et…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: lard, barbecue, chicken Gepubliceerd op 10 August 2009Laatste wijziging 31 December 2019

Real Dutch kroket and bitterbal

The picture shows my daughter and some of her friends at her birthday party many years ago (in 2002). As part of the festivities they were preparing their own meal, the standard birthday fare for a lot of Dutch children in the past: kroketten, French fries and apple sauce, but everything made from scratch. They…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With meat Tagged With: deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 9 January 2006Laatste wijziging 22 December 2019

If you’re feeling under the weather

I prepared this beverage with barley water and almonds for the promotion on the Foodie Festival in Amsterdam of my most recent book Het geheim van de keukenmeid (The cook’s secret). Theme of this publication is recipes from the eighteenth century from printed cookery books with the word ‘keukenmeid’ (kitchen maid or cook) in the…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Beverage Tagged With: rose water, almond, barley Gepubliceerd op 19 December 2019Laatste wijziging 19 December 2019

Cheese biscuits

Straight to the recipe The first recipes for 2019 both concern hot, mulled wine. To accompany these wines, I have added this recipe for cheese biscuits from a French cookery book that we used for our Christmas dinner 2018: La cuisine de monsieur Momo, cĆ©libataire. This was originally published in 1930. These biscuits were served…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Snack, Savoury pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: butter, cheese Gepubliceerd op 17 January 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Braised Belgian Endives

Straight to the recipe Belgian endives are not widely appreciated. It does not look very attractive once it is cooked, with its grey and slimy exterior. That is why generally speaking, today this vegetable is eaten raw as salad, or only slightly cooked. Imagine my horrified surprise when I read the recipe for Belgian endives…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: belgian endives Gepubliceerd op 14 December 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Thank you!

Thanks to your gift Coquinaria can remain online without introducing a paid membership. I appreciate it very much. Below a little something as a token of my appreciation (a recipe, a picture, a little fact). Once in a while the ‘little something’ will be changed. Delicious rice salad for the Summer season When we have…

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Dough – The basics

Straight to the list with basic recipes and historical recipes with dough Preparing dough is a question of touching and feeling. Basic ingredients are flour, water and salt. Eggs, butter and shortening can also be used, and instead of water other liquids can be added, like white wine. The recipes here are mostly based on…

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Medieval bread with fennel and lard

Straight to the recipe Recipes for bread from the distant past are rare. The recipe on this page was inspired by the description in the Nyeuwen cooc boeck (New Cook Book) by Gheeraert Vorselman (edition Cockx-Indestege 1971, see bibliography). Actually this is a description of a kind of flat, unleavened bread, but I added yeast…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: fennel, venkel, spek, smoked pork, buckwheat, boekweit Gepubliceerd op 21 May 2005Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Excellent cookies

  This is a recipe for small but rich cookies. High tea is not customary in theĀ Netherlands, but we do serve a biscuit or cookie with a cup of coffee or tea, in the morning as well as in the afternoon. At what time of the day would these cookies have been served in theĀ eighteenth…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: cloves, cinnamon, raisins Gepubliceerd op 21 November 2007Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Broccoli in the ‘Opera’

Straight to the recipe TheĀ OperaĀ from this recipe has nothing to do with music, and everything with theĀ opus magnusĀ of Italian cook Bartolomeo Scappi, which appeared in print in 1570.Ā OperaĀ means ‘the work’ (in Italian, in Latin it would have been ‘the works’). Nowadays the cookbook is mainly known for its magnificent engravings which illustrate all kinds of…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: garlic, knoflook, broccoli Gepubliceerd op 19 February 2009Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Quince pie

Straight to the recipe A very special pie from the sixteenth century There is a growing interest for vegetables and fruit from the past.Ā Compared to, say the seventeenth century, the variety in apples, pears and plumbs has become less and less. Nowadays it is mainly those varieties that are easy to grow, have a high…

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Filed Under: Belgium, Netherlands, Dessert, Sweet pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: almond, quince Gepubliceerd op 25 October 2004Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Tourte de fonges

Straight to the recipe Mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau This mushroom pie from 1604 is much more modern than the MĆ©nagier’s from the fourteenth century. No spices and sugar, but herbs to bring the stuffing to taste. The recipe comes from theĀ Ouverture de cuisine, published in 1604 by Lancelot de Casteau. He was, according…

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Filed Under: 16th century, 17th century, Belgium, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mushrooms, mint, cheese Gepubliceerd op 13 November 2010Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Home Made Italian Pasta

The Italians are famous for their pasta. On this page you learn how to make fresh pasta, with eggs and without eggs, and for stuffed pasta likeĀ ravioliĀ andĀ tortellini. Asian pasta is also delicious. See here forĀ recipes. And for those of you who are interested in the past,Ā hereĀ are recipes for fresh pasta from the sixteenth century. And…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Italy, Pasta Tagged With: egg Gepubliceerd op 12 July 2004Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

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