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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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17th century

Pickle Herring, the ‘forgotten fish’

Pickle Herring, the ‘forgotten fish’

It is time to change that! In February 2016 I organized a cookery course for the first time in nearly ten years, with members of the re-enactment group Het Woud der Verwachting (litt: ‘the forest of expectation’, after a historical novel by the Dutch author Hella Haasse). The menu was in concordance with the date of the course:…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, Netherlands, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: herring, salt, lent Gepubliceerd op 16 February 2018Laatste wijziging 16 February 2018

A brief history of pasta – Part 2

A brief history of pasta – Part 2

To part 1 of the history of pasta When I published two macaroni recipes from World War I, I also added a page on the recent history of the production of macaronipasta. This page can be considered as the ‘prequel’ of that history section: pasta and macaroni from the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century….

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Filed Under: Technique, Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2017Laatste wijziging 15 October 2017

Eggs with gooseberries

Eggs with gooseberries

Straight to the recipe An odd but tasty dish Recently I published an article in the periodical De Boekenwereld (The Book World) on Roman Catholic recipes in the eighteenth-century cookery book De Volmaakte Hollandsche Keuken-Meid (The perfect Dutch Kitchen Maid). The indirect cause of that article was a recipe I published on Coquinaria a year ago, a Dish for Lent with prunes…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: gooseberry, egg Gepubliceerd op 7 September 2015Laatste wijziging 7 October 2017

Plum Pie and Pieter Cornelisz Hooft

Plum Pie and Pieter Cornelisz Hooft

Straight to the recipe A delicious Dutch pie from the seventeenth century Straight to the recipe Summer is plum season. In Dutch the expression tot in de pruimentijd  (litterally ‘see you in the plum season’) has a special meaning: ‘Until we meet again, whenever that may be’. This expression is commonly ascribed to Pieter Cornelisz. Hooft (1581-1647), but there are…

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Filed Under: 17th century, Netherlands, Dessert, Sweet pastry Tagged With: fruit, plums Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2014Laatste wijziging 1 February 2018

Tuna with mustard crust

Tuna with mustard crust

Straight to the recipe A spicy Walloon dish from the sixteenth century Last year I published a recipe for mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau, the sixteenth-century cook for several bishops of the Prince-Bishopric Liège, and I promised to revisit this cookbook soon. Not a lot is known about Lancelot de Casteau. He was born in Mons, lived…

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Filed Under: 17th century, First course, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: orange, mustard, coriander Gepubliceerd op 22 August 2011Laatste wijziging 22 September 2017

Pastry dough according to Lancelot de Casteau

Pastry dough according to Lancelot de Casteau

This one of the rare recipes for dough in old cookery books. Cooks knew how to prepare dough, so it was not considered necessary to provide recipes. In the cookbook from Lancelot de Casteau, dating from 1604, is a recipe for a kind of puff pastry. It is part of the recipe for ‘tourtes de…

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Filed Under: Technique, 17th century, Belgium Tagged With: dough Gepubliceerd op 13 November 2010Laatste wijziging 12 November 2017

Tourte de fonges

Tourte de fonges

Straight to the recipe Mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau This mushroom pie from 1604 is much more modern than the Ménagier’s from the fourteenth century. No spices and sugar, but herbs to bring the stuffing to taste. The recipe comes from the Ouverture de cuisine, published in 1604 by Lancelot de Casteau. He was, according…

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Filed Under: 17th century, Belgium, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mint, mushrooms, cheese Gepubliceerd op 13 November 2010Laatste wijziging 13 December 2017

Vegetarian stock for Lent

Vegetarian stock for Lent

Recipes from the seventeenth century During Lent, between carnival and Easter, the catholic church (and after the Reformation several protestant churches as well) restricted the faithful to a meatless diet. During the Middle Ages all diary products were also banned during Lent, later the use of butter was permitted. Almonds were used instead of meat…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lent, peas Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 15 February 2018

Spinach Pie

Spinach Pie

This the third recipe for Good Friday. The other recipes are Pomegranate Salad and Jacobin Sops. If one grows spinach in the kitchen garden, or is from an older generation, one might remember the sharp-edged seeds of some varieties of spinach. Spinach had to be washed very thoroughly to remove all those unpleasant seeds. Nowadays…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: dough, spinach Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 1 March 2018

Jacobin sops for Good Friday

Jacobin sops for Good Friday

In the introduction to the recipe for Pomegranate Salad I mentioned the only day that the (catholic) French alle ate vegetarian. That is really something special, because ordering a vegetarian dish in an average French restaurant usually results in raised eyebrows and a rather plain meatless dish. The recipe on this page and the recipe…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mushrooms, capers Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 26 February 2018

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The newest historical recipe

Tulip Bulb Soup from the Hunger Winter 1944/1945

Tulip Bulb Soup '44/'45

The newest modern recipe

Rose jelly and almond jelly for Valentine's Day

Rose jelly and almond jelly for Valentine's Day

Old and new design

The site is in process of being redesigned. All content has to be adapted manually, and that takes time. The categories and tags below only reflect the recipes that have already been adapted. For a complete list of recipes, please visit this page: coquinaria.nl/en/recipes/.

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