{"id":10054,"date":"2010-03-05T11:21:45","date_gmt":"2010-03-05T10:21:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/coquinaria.nl\/?p=10054"},"modified":"2019-12-11T08:41:33","modified_gmt":"2019-12-11T07:41:33","slug":"recipes-good-friday-2","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/coquinaria.nl\/en\/recipes-good-friday-2\/","title":{"rendered":"Jacobin sops for Good Friday"},"content":{"rendered":"
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\"FloweringIn the introduction to the recipe for Pomegranate Salad<\/a> I mentioned the only day that the (catholic) French alle ate vegetarian. That is really something special, because ordering a vegetarian dish in an average French restaurant usually results in raised eyebrows and a rather plain meatless dish.<\/p>\n

The recipe on this page and the recipe for Spinach Pie<\/a>\u00a0are from Le cuisinier<\/em> (1656, see bibliography<\/a>) by the relatively unknown cook Pierre de Lune. According to the information on the title page of his cookbook, Pierre de Lune was ‘escuyer de cuisine du feu Monsieur le Duc de Rohan’. That must have been Henri Chabot (1616-1655), who was duke of Rohan first by his marriage with Marguerite de Rohan, and later in his own right. His son and heirLouis de Rohan-Chabot was born in 1652, he was too young to appreciate the culinary arts of Pierre de Lune when he published his cookbook.<\/p>\n

This recipe is meant for Good Friday. It is a adaptaed version of a popular dish with fowl, Jacobin Sops<\/em>. On Coquinaria I have published a medieval recipe with chicken meat<\/a>, but the recipe on this page could be considered a high-end vegetarian pea soup. The soup is enriched with mushrooms and artichoke bottoms. Pierre de Lune also presents a meat version and a fish version of Jacobin Sops in his cookbook, both for the Winter season. The meat version contains breast fillets of partridges or capons, grated or sliced cheese on toast, capers, lamb stock and lemon juice. For fish days De Lune uses chopped carp or eel, mushrooms and Parmesan cheese. By the way, Fran\u00e7ois la Varenne also presents a – more elaborate – recipe for Jacobin Sops on meat days, but no versions for fish days or Good Friday.<\/p>\n

The picture of flowering artichokes were taken by me in the ‘le potager du roi’ (the kitchen garden) in Versailles. More about Jacobins can be read in the recipe for medieval jacobin sops<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The original recipe<\/h2>\n

The recipe is from the second edition of\u00a0Le [nouveau] cuisinier […]<\/em>\u00a0from Pierre de Lune, 1660 (see bibliography<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Potage ou Iacobine
\nFaites mitonner croustes de pain auec pur\u00e9e claire, hachez vne douzaine de champignons, & deux cus d’artichaux, semez sur les croustes, & y mettez aussi\u00a0<\/em>fromage de Milan<\/em><\/a>\u00a0r\u00e2p\u00e9, couurez le plat, & passez par la po\u00ebsle capres, farine auec beurre roux, & vn peu de pur\u00e9e, & mettez sur le potage; garnissez de citron.<\/em><\/div>
Jacobin pottage
\nSteep pieces of bread in thin pur\u00e9e. Chop twelve white mushrooms and two artichoke bottoms. Divide over the bread, and also put cheese from Milan over it. Cover the dish, and saut\u00e9 capers and flour with butter, and some pur\u00e9e, and pour on the pottage. Garnish with lemon.<\/div>
<\/div><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

<\/a>Modern adaptation of the recipe<\/h2>\n

Chances were that the mushrooms and artichokes used in this recipe were not fresh but from preserves. Artichokes are harvested in late summer and early autumn, mushrooms (specifically\u00a0Agaricus bisporus<\/em>) from May to October. But maybe La Quintinie could also produce fresh artichokes for the table of Good Friday. There is also a recipe for a delicious\u00a0medieval version of a\u00a0Jacobin pottage<\/span><\/a>\u00a0for meat days, with chicken.
\nFirst course<\/span>\u00a0for 4 persons<\/span>; preparation in advance<\/em>\u00a010 minutes<\/span><\/span>\u00a0+ preparing Lent stock; preparation <\/em>10 minutes<\/span><\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"Jacobin4 thick slices of\u00a0firm white bread<\/span> (pain de campagne<\/em>)
\n150 gr (2 cups) white mushrooms<\/span> (canned, or bought fresh and blanched)
\n2 artichoke bottoms<\/span> (canned, or from freshly cooked artichokes)
\n75 gr (3\/4 cup) freshly grated Grana Padano<\/span> (or Parmigiano Reggiano, but in this recipe I prefer the Grana)
\n1\u00bd Tbsp capers<\/span>
\n20 gr butter
\n20 gr flour
\n7 1\/2 dl (3 cups)\u00a0thin pur\u00e9e<\/a>
\n1 lemon<\/p>\n

Preparation in advance<\/h3>\n

Prepare the\u00a0pur\u00e9e<\/em>. This was a ‘thin (clear) pea soup’, that was used during the many days that the consumption of meat (and meat stock) was prohibited by the church.\u00a0Here<\/a>\u00a0is the recipe.
\nChop the mushrooms and artichoke bottoms.
\nDrain the capers and pat them dry.<\/p>\n

Preparation<\/h3>\n

Lay one slice of bread in individual soup plates or bowls, or put them all in one large soup terrine. Pour a little heated pur\u00e9e over the bread, and sprinkle the chopped mushrooms and artichoke bottoms on it. Cover and keep warm (in the oven at 100 dgC\/210\u00a0o<\/sup>F).
\nMelt the butter in a skillet, heat until slightly coloured. Add the capers and after a few seconds the flour. Mix until a dough-like ball forms. Then start adding the preheated pur\u00e9e little by little. Keep stirring. The pur\u00e9e has now thickened a little.
\nJust before serving, sprinkle the bread with grated cheese, than pour the thickened pur\u00e9e over it.<\/p>\n

To serve<\/h3>\n

Finish with placing a thin slice of lemon on top, and serve at once, hot.<\/p>\n

Ingredients<\/h2>\n

All descriptions of ingredients<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a>Fromage de Milan<\/h4>\n

This is Parmesan cheese, according to the\u00a0Encyclop\u00e9die M\u00e9thodique Commerce<\/a><\/em>\u00a0Vol..2 part 1 (1783), under the heading of\u00a0Fromages \u00c9trangers,<\/em>\u00a0p.467 “De toutes les esp\u00e8ces de\u00a0fromages<\/em>, celui d’Italie est le plus estim\u00e9. Il vient en grosses meules ou pains ronds, \u00e9pais de cinq \u00e0 six pouces, que quelques-uns nomment des\u00a0pi\u00e8ces<\/em>. Il sont du pois depuis 50 jusq’a 90 livres. Cette sorte de fromage se vend en France sous le titre de\u00a0fromage<\/em>\u00a0de Milan ou de Parmesan”. It is confusing that on the same page you can read that ‘fromage<\/em>\u00a0de Parme, vulgairement apell\u00e9\u00a0Parmesan<\/em>‘, is mentioned as one of the\u00a0(fromages de) Hollande<\/em>. I imagine that is an editor’s error.<\/p>\n

<\/a>Bibliography<\/h2>\n

The editions below were used by me. Links refer to available editions.<\/p>\n