{"id":10196,"date":"2011-03-03T17:54:58","date_gmt":"2011-03-03T16:54:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/coquinaria.nl\/?p=10196"},"modified":"2019-11-24T20:16:52","modified_gmt":"2019-11-24T19:16:52","slug":"scappi-pasta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/coquinaria.nl\/en\/scappi-pasta\/","title":{"rendered":"Sixteenth-century pasta dough"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Straight to the recipe<\/small><\/a><\/p>\n

\"DetailTwo recipes from the\u00a0Opera<\/em>\u00a0of Bartolomeo Scappi<\/h2>\n

Let’s all say it once more, loud and clear: “Marco Polo did NOT bring pasta to Italy from China!” Dried pasta was already eaten in Europe before the good man returned from his travels in 1295.<\/p>\n

According to some, pasta was already known to the ancient Romans. But Roman\u00a0lagana<\/em>\u00a0and tracta<\/em>\u00a0can not simply be compared to the later pasta. In their edition of\u00a0De re coquinaria<\/em>\u00a0from 2006 (see bibliography<\/a>) Grocock and Grainger suggest that\u00a0lagana<\/em>\u00a0had more resemblance to a Mexican\u00a0tortilla<\/em>\u00a0or Indian\u00a0chapatti<\/em>\u00a0than Italian lasagna (Grocock\/Grainger, p. 349\/50). According to Capatti and Montanari (Italian cuisine<\/em>,\u00a0see bibliography<\/a>), dried pasta was invented by Arabs in the ninth century to take with them on their travels through the desert. In the twelfth century there was a complete industry in dried pasta in Sicily, which has been under Arabian rule for centuries. Merchants from Genoa traded dried pasta to the Italian peninsula, and soon it was also produced there. (Italian cuisine<\/em>, pp. 51\/52).<\/p>\n

On this page are two recipes, one for pasta dough with eggs, and another without eggs that is especially for stuffed pasta. The first recipe is incorporated in a recipe for tortelletti with capon flesh. Just the ingredients are named, apparently everyone knew by experience how much of everything was needed. On top of this page is a detail from an illustration from the Opera<\/em> from Scappi, with a rolled-out sheet of pasta dough. One can wonder whether the cook is merrily waving, or has just burned his hand.<\/p>\n

The recipes are from the cookery book\u00a0Opera<\/em>\u00a0(first published 1570)\u00a0<\/em>from Bartolomeo Scappi, who was active from 1536 to 1570. More about this famous renaissance cook can be read in the introduction to the recipe for\u00a0tortelli in brodo<\/a>. On this page<\/a> is described how Scappi made macaroni, using some very special ingredients.<\/p>\n

\"MakingMaking pasta in the Middle\u00a0 Ages<\/h3>\n

The picture is from the\u00a0Tacuinum Sanitatis<\/a><\/em>\u00a0(about 1400 AD). One woman is kneading pasta dough, another woman is holding a rack for spreading the cut and stretched pasta to dry. Other versions of this miniature show the pasta already on the rack. Maybe the painter has forgotten to paint them in.\u00a0I think the modern way of drying pasta, rolled loosely as bird’s nests, is more practical, because you’ll need a very deep pan to boil this long pasta!<\/p>\n

The original recipes<\/h2>\n

Below are a recipe for pasta dough for stuffed pasta (in Scully’s edition p.230, part of recipe II.177), and a recipe for pasta with eggs, to make tagliatelle and lasagne (Scully p.228, recipe II.173). The Italian text is from the facsimile edition of the\u00a0Opera\u00a0<\/em>mentioned in the bibliography<\/a>, the English translation is from Scully’s 2008 edition (see bibliography<\/a>).
\nWhen I tried to translate this text myself (before 2008), I had trouble with one passage:\u00a0fettaccisi fuora per lo criuello il farinaccio<\/em>. A kind Italian neighbour of my father’s helped me, and I see in Scully’s version that my Dutch translation was correct. Ann Willan has left this passage altogether out of her version of the recipe (Great Cooks and their Recipes<\/em>\u00a0p.46).<\/p>\n

(Per fare tortelletti con la polpa di cappone)
\n[…] uno sfoglio di pasta alquanto sottile, fatto di fior di farina, acqua di rose, sale, butiro, zuccaro, & acqua tepida […]<\/em><\/div>
(To prepare tortellini with capon flesh)
\n[…] a rather thin sheet of dough made of flour, rosewater, salt, butter, sugar and warm water […]<\/div>
<\/div><\/p>\n
Per far minestra di tagliatelli
\nImpastinosi due libre di fior di farina con tre uoua, & acqua tepida, & mescolisi bene sopra una tavola per lo spatio d’un quarto d’hora, & dapoi stendasi sottilmente con il bastone, & lascisi alquanto risciugare il sfoglio, & rimondinosi con lo sperone le parti piu grosse, che son gli orlicci, & quando sar\u00e0 asciutto per\u00f2 non troppo, perche crepe rebbe, spoluerizzisi di fior di farina con il fetaccio, accioche non si attacchi, piglisi poi il bastone della pasta, & comincisi da un capo, & riuolgasi tutto lo sfoglio sopra il bastone leggiermente, cauisi il bastone, e taglisi lo sfoglio cosi riuolto per lo trauerso con un coltello largo sottile, e tagliati che saranno, slarghinosi, & lassinosi alquanto rasciugare, & asciutti che saranno, fettaccisi fuora per lo criuello il farinaccio, & facciasene minestra con brodo grasso di carne, o con latte, & butiro, & cotti che saranno, seruanosi caldi con cascio, zuccaro, & cannella, & uolendone far lasagne taglisi la pasta sul bastone per lungo, & compartasi la detta pasta in due parti parimente per lungo, e taglisi in quadretti, & faccianosi\u00a0 cuocere in brodo di lepre, ouero di grua, o d’altra carna, o latte, & seruanosi calde con cascio, zuccaro, & cannella.<\/em><\/div>
To prepare a thick soup of tagliatelle
\nWork two pounds of flour, three eggs and warm water into a dough, kneading it on a table for a quarter of an hour. Roll it out hin with a pin and let the sheet of dough dry a little. With a cutting wheel trim away the irregular parts, the fringes. When it has dried, though not too much because it would break up, sprinkle it with flour through the sifter so it will not stick. Then take the rolling pin and, beginning at one end, wrap the whole sheet loosely onto the pin, draw the pin out and cut the rolled-up dough crosswise with a broad, thin knife. When they are cut, broaden them. Let them dry out a little and, when yhey are dry, filter off the excess flour through a sieve. Make up a soup of them with a fat meat broth, or milk and butter. When they are cooked, serve them hot with cheese, sugar and cinnamon. If you want to make lasagne of them, cut the dough legthwise on the pin, and and likewise divide it lengthwise in two, and cut that into little squares. Cook them in the broth of a hare, a crane or some other meat, or in milk. Serve them hot with cheese, sugar and cinnamon.<\/div>
<\/div><\/p>\n

<\/a>Modern adaptation of the recipes<\/h2>\n

For 4 persons (more or less).
\nA tip: if the pasta dough remains too dry (crumbly) add a little water (one teaspoon at the time). Is the dough too wet (sticky), add some flour.<\/p>\n

Dough for stuffed pasta, without eggs<\/h3>\n

\"Scappi's250 gr (1 cup + 2 Tbsp) flour (or durum wheat)
\n\u00bd tspsalt
\n1 tsp sugar
\n1 Tbsp butter
\n1 dl (3.4 fl.oz US\/3.5 fl.oz UK) tepid water
\n2 Tbsp\u00a0rose water<\/a><\/p>\n

Preparation<\/h3>\n

For mixing and kneading dough, see the page on\u00a0making fresh pasta<\/a>. Also on that page: how to roll out and cut your pasta. The dough from this recipe can be used to make\u00a0Tortellini in brodo<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Dough for tagliatelle and lasagne, with eggs<\/h3>\n

250 gr (1 cup + 2 Tbsp) flour (or durum wheat)
\n1 egg
\n4 Tbsp (60 cc) tepid water<\/p>\n

Preparation<\/h3>\n

For mixing and kneading dough, see the page on\u00a0making fresh pasta<\/a>. Also on that page: how to roll out and cut your pasta. The oldfashioned way is to roll out the dough with something like a broomstick. Then sprinkle the sheet of dough with flour (to prevent the dough sticking together) and wrap it loosely around the same stick. Pull out the stick, and, using a thin, sharp knife, cut the roll into strips.\u00a0 Depending on how wide these strips are, you’ve made tagliatelle or papardelle. You can also cut the sheet into smaller pieces, making lasagne. The pasta must be dried and the surplus of flour shaken off in a sieve before boiling. The pasta is boiled right before serving the dish.<\/p>\n

How to prepare Scappi’s pasta<\/h3>\n

Scappi gives us no clue as to how much broth the tagliatelle are to be served in, or if the pasta is drained before serving. The word\u00a0minestra<\/em>\u00a0in the recpe title means ‘thick soup’, so at least a little broth is to be expected. So, the pasta has to be cooked in broth. Although I do not like using stock cubes, in this case I do, because the cooking-broth will become turbid. If you want to serve the pasta in a clear broth, it best to use a separate, concentrated\u00a0home made stock<\/a>.
\nAccording to Scappi you can also cook pasta in milk. This is still done in modern Italian cuisine, especially in\u00a0minestre<\/em>\u00a0with rice.<\/p>\n

<\/a>And what about macaroni?<\/h3>\n

Scappi also describes how to make macaroni: hollow pasta pipes. That has also been translated and adapted on Coquinaria, see the historical recipe\u00a0Per far minestra di maccaroni a ferro<\/a>. See for later developments on this page<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Ingredients<\/h2>\n

All descriptions of ingredients<\/a><\/p>\n

<\/a>Rose water<\/h4>\n

This is indeed water that is perfumed with rose petals. In the modern Western cuisine its use is obsolete (except in e.g. marzipan), but during the Middle Ages and Renaissance it was a popular condiment (as was orange blossom water). In the Middle-East and India rose water is still in use.<\/p>\n

<\/a>Bibliography<\/h2>\n

The editions below were used by me. Links refer to available editions.<\/p>\n