{"id":2147,"date":"2017-08-16T17:57:36","date_gmt":"2017-08-16T15:57:36","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/coquinaria.nl\/?p=2147\/"},"modified":"2019-11-25T18:02:41","modified_gmt":"2019-11-25T17:02:41","slug":"cold-soup-from-russia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/coquinaria.nl\/en\/cold-soup-from-russia\/","title":{"rendered":"Polish cold soup from a Russian cookbook"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

Very refreshing!<\/h2>\n

\"Screenshot<\/p>\n

This is a delicious dish when it is hot. It is a soup, a\u00a0chlodnik<\/em>\u00a0or ‘cold thingy’ according to the cookbook\u00a0A gift to young housewives<\/em>\u00a0(\u041f\u043e\u0434\u0430\u0301\u0440\u043e\u043a \u043c\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0434\u044b\u0301\u043c \u0445\u043e\u0437\u044f\u0301\u0439\u043a\u0430\u043c, first published in 1861) from\u00a0Jelena Molochovjets<\/a>. According to her, this soup is Polish in origin. The Polish wikipedia defines Ch\u0142odnik<\/a>\u00a0as any cold soup; the Spanish\u00a0gazpacho<\/a>\u00a0is also a ch\u0142odnik according to this definition. And the only recipe for this soup on the Polish wikipedia is a Lithuanian Ch\u0142odnik<\/a>. According to the Russian wikipedia, chlodnik<\/em>\u00a0is a national dish in several East-European countries like Belarusse, Lithuania, Latvia, the Ukraine and Poland. Pictures of this dish nearly always show a pink soup – from beetroot – but it is also possible to prepare chlodnik without it, using the greens of beet or other leafy greens like sorrel or wild herbs. The green versions are often especially for Lent or fast days. On the picture is a screenshot of what you get when looking for pictures of ‘chlodnik’. My apologies for the terrible colour clash with the design of my website.<\/p>\n

There is more information on Jelena Molochovjets and her cookbook at the recipe for\u00a0Vinigret<\/a>\u00a0(‘Russian Salad’). And another soup from Molochovjets on Coquinaria is\u00a0Soup with Sauerkraut<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The original recipe<\/h2>\n

The recipe for\u00a0chlodnik<\/strong>\u00a0is already present in the first edition of The Gift<\/em>. The Russian text is taken from that edition. But for my translation I have used the translation of the twentieth edition by Toomre, because when I tried Google translate in 2014 it was a mess, with some very funny frases (like ‘pee in a colander’ for ‘drain in a colander’). But we are now a few years later, and the translations have improved. \u00a0However, comparing the translation of the later edition with that of the first show that in thirty years the recipe essentially has not changed.<\/p>\n

102) \u0425\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0434\u043d\u0438\u043a \u043f\u043e\u043b\u044c\u0441\u043a\u0438\u0439 \u0441\u043e \u0441\u043c\u0435\u0442\u0430\u043d\u043e\u0439 (1ste<\/sup>\u00a0druk, 1861)<\/p>\n

\u0413\u043e\u0440\u0441\u0442\u044c \u0443\u043a\u0440\u043e\u043f\u0430 \u0438 \u0442\u0440\u0438\u0431\u0443\u043b\u044c\u043a\u0438, \u0442. \u0435. \u0437\u0435\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e \u043b\u0443\u043a\u0430 \u0441\u0435\u044f\u043d\u0446\u0430, \u0440\u0430\u0441\u0442\u0435\u0440\u0435\u0442\u044c \u0441 \u0441\u043e\u043b\u044c\u044e. \u0412\u0437\u044f\u0442\u044c \u043c\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0434\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0441\u0432\u0435\u043a\u043e\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0438\u043a\u0430 \u0438 \u043d\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u043b\u044c\u043a\u043e \u0448\u0442\u0443\u043a \u0441\u0430\u043c\u043e\u0439 \u043c\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043e\u0439 \u043c\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0434\u043e\u0439 \u0441\u0432\u0435\u043a\u043b\u044b, \u0432\u044b\u043c\u044b\u0442\u044c, \u0441\u0432\u0430\u0440\u0438\u0442\u044c \u0432 \u0441\u043e\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043e\u0439 \u0432\u043e\u0434\u0435, \u043e\u0442\u043b\u0438\u0442\u044c \u043d\u0430 \u0434\u0443\u0440\u0448\u043b\u0430\u0433, \u043c\u0435\u043b\u044c\u043e \u0438\u0437\u0440\u0443\u0431\u0438\u0442\u044c, \u0441\u043b\u043e\u0436\u0438\u0442\u044c \u0432 \u0441\u0443\u043f\u043e\u0432\u0443\u044e \u043c\u0438\u0441\u043a\u0443 (\u043c\u0435\u043b\u043a\u043e \u0438\u0437\u0440\u0443\u0431\u043b\u0435\u043d\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e \u0441\u0432\u0435\u043a\u043e\u043b\u044c\u043d\u0438\u043a\u0430 \u0434\u043e\u043b\u0436\u043d\u043e \u0431\u044b\u0442\u044c 1 \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043d\u044b\u0439 \u0441\u0442\u0430\u043a\u0430\u043d); \u0432\u043b\u0438\u0442\u044a 2–5 \u0441\u0442\u0430\u043a\u0430\u043d\u043e\u0432 \u0441\u043c\u0435\u0442\u0430\u043d\u044b \u0441\u0430\u043c\u043e\u0439 \u0441\u0432\u0435\u0436\u0435\u0439, \u0440\u0430\u0437\u0432\u0435\u0441\u0442\u0438 \u043f\u043e \u043f\u0440\u043e\u043f\u043e\u0440\u0446\u0438\u0438 \u0445\u043b\u0435\u0431\u043d\u044b\u043c \u043a\u0432\u0430\u0441\u043e\u043c \u0438\u043b\u0438 \u043a\u0438\u043f\u044f\u0447\u0435\u043d\u043e\u0439 \u0445\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0434\u043d\u043e\u0439 \u0432\u043e\u0434\u043e\u0439, \u043f\u043e\u043b\u043e\u0436\u0438\u0442\u044c \u0445\u0440\u0443\u0442\u044b\u0445, \u043d\u0430 \u043d\u0435\u0441\u043a\u043e\u043b\u044c\u043a\u043e \u0447\u0430\u0441\u0442\u0435\u0439 \u0440\u0430\u0437\u0440\u0435\u0437\u0430\u043d\u044b\u0445 \u044f\u0438\u0446, \u043c\u0435\u043b\u043a\u0438\u043c\u0438 \u0447\u0435\u0442\u044b\u0440\u0435\u0445\u0443\u0433\u043e\u043b\u044c\u043d\u044b\u043c\u0438 \u043a\u0443\u0441\u043e\u0447\u043a\u0430\u043c\u0438 \u043d\u0430\u0440\u0435\u0437\u0430\u043d\u043d\u044b\u0445 \u0441\u0432\u0435\u0436\u0438\u0445 \u043ery\u0440\u043b\u043e\u0432, \u0440\u0430\u043a\u043e\u0432\u044b\u0445 \u0448\u0435\u0435\u043a, \u043b\u043e\u043c\u0442\u0438\u043a\u0438 \u043b\u0438\u043c\u043e\u043d\u0430, \u0441\u043e\u043b\u0438, \u043d\u0435\u043c\u043d\u043e\u0433\u043e \u043f\u0435\u0440\u0446\u0430 \u0438 \u043a\u0443\u0441\u043e\u043a \u043b\u044c\u0434\u0430.<\/div>\n

161 Polish kholodnik<\/em> with sour cream\u00a0(20th edition, 1892, translation by Joyce Toomre)<\/p>\n

Mash a handful of dill and chives with salt. Wash young beet greens and several very small young beets and cook them in salted water. Drain the beets and greens in a colander, chop them fine and put them in the soup tureen (there should be a full glass of greens). Add 2-5 glasses of very fresh sour cream and dilute qwith the same amount of grain kvass or cooled boiled water. Add hard-boiled eggs, cut into several pieces, cubed fresh cucumbers, crayfish tails, lemon slices, salt, a little pepper, and a piece of ice.<\/div>\n

<\/div>\n

<\/a>Modern adaptation of the recipe<\/h2>\n

The soup of Molochovjets is with beet greens and ‘very small youg beets’ that are optional according to the list of ingredients. Use no more than one small red beet if any. The taste will be much the same, but the colour will greatly change: pastel green or pink. For me, the green soup was more attractive in colour as well as taste.
\nFirst course<\/span>,\u00a0for 1.25 liter soup<\/span>;\u00a0preparation<\/em>\u00a015 minutes + cooling<\/span><\/span>.<\/p>\n

\"Polish<\/p>\n

250 gr\u00a0beet greens<\/span>\u00a0(‘erbette’)
\n1 small cooked beet (optional)
\n2 Tbsp chopped\u00a0dill<\/span>
\n1 Tbsp chopped\u00a0chives<\/span>
\n5 dl (2 cups)\u00a0sour cream<\/span>
\n5 dl\u00a0(2 cups) kvass<\/a>\u00a0(Russian or Polish supermarket) or boiled and chilled water
\npepper and salt to taste
\nGarnering<\/em>
\n1\u00a0cucumber<\/span>, peeled
\n2 hard boiled\u00a0eggs<\/span>
\n150 gr\u00a0crayfish<\/span>, cooked and peeled
\n1 small\u00a0lemon<\/span>
\na few sprigs dill<\/p>\n

Preparation<\/h3>\n

Soup<\/strong>\u00a0– Blanch the cleaned beet greens in salted water, drain and pur\u00e9e and blend it with kvass and sour cream. Add dill and chives. Chill the soup in the regrigerator.
\nGarnish<\/strong>\u00a0– Pour boiling water over the lemon to remove the layer of wax (even ‘organic lemons’ often have this layer). Slice the lemon thinly.
\nHalve the cucumbers lengthwise, remove the soft center. Cut the cucumber into small cubes.
\nPeel and slice the eggs.<\/p>\n

To serve<\/h3>\n

Serve the chilled soup in a terrine with some of the garnish and put the rest of the garnish in serving bowls on the table. Or serve individual plates or soup bowls.<\/p>\n

Bibliography<\/h3>\n