Why is this punch called royal and Polish? To be honest, I am not very well versed in the history of Poland. I have looked at the English and German versions of Wikipedia, and – with thanks to google translate – also at the Polish Wikipedia.
In short: yes, Poland had kings, but it was also at times a republic, and from 1795 until 1918 the country was divided between Russia, Prussia and Austria. This division was consolidated during the Congress of Vienna. At the conclusion of the First World War Poland was unified again and became an independent nation once more, a republic. This republic was short-lived, in 1939 Poland was divided once more between Germany and Russia. The czars were called king in the part of Poland that was annexed by Russia in the nineteenth century (Congres Poland). But whether this punch has been named after a specific king is doubtful. Probably it is the same as with the Dutch queen’s soup, a dish that was very popular during our century of successive queens but has no relation to a particular queen.
I must confess that I do not have any knowledge of Slavic languages. So, I cannot read any Polish cookbooks to look for punch recipes. I did find an English cookbook on Polish cuisine (see bibliography) that had a recipe for Sylvester Punch (poncz Sylwestrowy). However, that is a very basic recipe, in which an orange and lemon are rubbed on sugar cubes which are then added to red or white wine with rum. No pineapple anywhere. My preliminary conclusion is: the Polish drink punch (there is even a recipe for Cucumber Punch in the cookbook!), and they have had kings in the past, but these two facts are not connected. If there are any Polish-speaking people who know of a Polish source of the historical recipe on this page, I would be delighted to hear from them.
This punch from Poland caught my interest not only because of the burning of sugar for which I was searching a historical recipe, but also because of the pineapple juice. The pineapple originates from the tropical rainforests in an area that now comprises Brazil and Paraguay. The English name pineapple comes from the resemblance of the fruit to the ‘apples’ from pines. Originally, the Dutch also called it a pijnappel, but eventually the original Indian name won and now we refer to the pineapple as ‘ananas’. This is derived from anãnã from the language of the Tupí-Guaraní. The South-American Tupí-Guaraní domesticated the plant; they used the fruit uncooked, or as jam (jelly), and to produce alcohol. By the end of the fifteenth century the pineapple was also cultivated outside of its area of origin: Columbus saw his first pineapples during his second journey, on the island Guadeloupe (as he named it). Europeans compared the plant to aloe vera or artichokes, the shape of the fruit with large pineapples, and the fruit itself tasted like melons. Columbus took six pineapples with him on the return journey to Spain in 1494. Five of them had rotten during the trip, the surviving pineapple was presented by Columbus to king Ferdinand II and queen Isabella of Aragon and Castile. The king considered the pineapple the most delicious fruit of all he had ever tasted. Pineapples were also appreciated by royalty because of its crown of leaves.
Growing mature, edible pineapples proved to be a challenge in Europe. The greenhouse in which the pineapple resides during the winter does not only needs to let in plenty of daylight, but also be heated constantly. The first to succeed in growing a mature, edible pineapple fruit was Agnes Block, in her greenhouse at her buitenplaats De Vijverhof along the river de Vecht. But more than for its taste, the pineapple was appreciated for its shape and exclusivity. Pineapple shapes were used as architectural ornament, on decorative wallpaper, and as a conversation-piece on the dining table. Such a ‘table-pineapple’ was used several times, until it began to decay. A solution to the decay of pineapples during transportation from the Caribbean was to harvest them while still green. The fruit would mature during the trip. But these unripe-harvested pineapples tasted inferior to those that had matured fully on the plant.
At the time of the recipe for the royal punch from Poland (1890), pineapples were still a sign of luxury, hence the royal punch. However, in the recipe for ‘Ananas-Bowle’ (pineapple punch) from the same cookbook, canned pineapple can be used instead of fresh fruit, and the juice from the tin can be added to punch. That recipe dates from the first revision by Rosendorf in 1881, in the original cookbook of Henriette Davidis the pineapple bowl is not present. Rosendorf informs the reader that canned pineapple is imported from Havana.
Pineapple became less exclusive when the canning industry became ever more successful. From 1865 onward pineapples from the Bahamas and Cuba were shipped to Baltimore in the United States to be canned. From there, they were shipped all over the world. The ‘pineapple from Havanna’ probably was also importing to Germany from Baltimore. (see bibliography)
This recipe is from the 1896 edition of the Praktisches Kochbuch (35th edition, p.640). It can be found in the chapter “Allerlei Getränke” (all kinds of drink), which opens with coffee and tea.
The original recipe does not have a separate list of ingredients, and that makes it hard to understand it. For example: what is meant by the remark on red fruit wine? The author suggests using it as replacement for red Rhine wine, which is a replacement for red French wine. The Rhine wine is tempered with Chablis, which is a white Burgundy and an unspecified Burgundy. Should that be red or white? Who knows? Holle ends her recipe with the remark that she prefers red Rhine wine above red French wine. So, for my adaptationI have combined Rhine wine and Burgundy and used ‘a red wine’. One can try a full red German Rhine wine, but frankly, any red wine will do. By the way, the wine which is recommended when eating pineapple is a sweet white wine like Sauternes or Spätlese Riesling.
Hot alcoholic drink for 12 persons (with portions of dl each); preparation in advance 15 minutes; preparation 15 minutes.
1 lemon
500 gr sugar
7½ dl water
2 dl pineapple juice (fresh or from a can)
1 bottle red wine
½ bottle Chablis or dry white wine
½ bottle dry Sekt or other sparkling wine
1 sugar cone of 250 gr
bottle Rum (54%)
Pour boiling water over one orange and the lemon. Dry them and grate the peel. Press both oranges and a half lemon, strain and reserve the juice. Put the pineapple juice in a pan and reduce to half the original amount.
Put sugar, water and citrus peel in a pan and bring to the boil. Strain the syrup to remove the orange and lemon peel.
Heat the syrup with concentrated pineapple juice, the reserved lemon and orange juices and the red and white wines until hot, but it must not boil. Pour the liquid into a heat-resistant punch boil, or simply place the pan itself on a burner with bio-ethanol. Place the sugar cone in a special fire tong, or use a perforated spoon or strainer that can stand the heat. Drip rum over the sugar until it is saturated. Check that there is nothing near the punch bowl that can catch fire, then light the rum. The sugar will melt and caramelize and drip into the hot wine. When the flames start to disappear, pour extra rum over the sugar. Use a spoon, do not pour straight from the bottle, to prevent the flames jumping into it.
When all sugar has melted, pour the Sekt or other sparkling into the punch. Serve it hot, in preheated mugs or heat-resistant glasses. During the nineteenth century punch could be served in small companies, but also in large gatherings such as balls.
Because there are at least three different wines in this punch (red, white and Sekt), it is difficult to make less than the amount from the recipe. One will have to use half and quart bottles of wine, but it can be done. In that case, prepare the punch completely, with the burned sugar included. If necessary, reheat the punch before serving. Pour into preheated glasses or mugs and add the Sekt at the last moment.
All descriptions of ingredients
Rum is a fermented and distilled drink made from molasses (sugar cane syrup) or straight from sugar cane juices. Rum is available in several strengths, from 37½% to 80% alcohol. Rum matures in oak barrels after distillation. For the Feuerzangenbowle rum with a minimum of 54% alcohol is needed (‘Navy Strength’). Read more about rum on Wikipedia. By the way, from my mother I have learned to prepare rum grog to combat a heavy cold: juice of half a lemon, a royal dash of rum and a spoonful of sugar, topped up with boiling water. Drink it hot. I do not whether it cures the cold, but it is an excellent sleeping potion!
This is ‘German Champagne’. According to the German Wikipedia, it was Georg Christian Kessler who first produced sparkling wine in Germany, in 1826. Originally, he worked for the French Champagne House Veuve Cliquot, and he used the acquired knowledge when he returned to his homeland. Naturally, the name Champagne is protected, but a good German Sekt is also very fine.
The editions below were used by me. Links refer to available editions.
Recipe for Royal Punch from Poland
This punch with caramelized sugar is from a German cookbook from the end of the 19th century. A festive, hot and delicious drink.
© Author
This recipe is from The Excellent Cookbook from Carolus Battus, published in 1593. Marleen Willbrands…
For the third course of the menu with adapted recipes in the edition of Het…
The recipe on this page was my Christmas card from 2018. Christine Charlotte Riedl The…
Sweet chestnuts (Castanea sativa) are an autumn treat. In the Netherlands the harvest is not…
Straight to the recipe Chestnut are a symbol of autumn, whether they are the toxic…
Straight to the recipe Who is still eating porridge nowadays? For my grandfather, born in…