This sweet almond-rice pudding with raisins and pine nuts was such a delicate dish. In a modern menu, Gensetada can be served as a dessert, but in the fourteenth and fifteenth century it was served together woth grilled fish and sweet and savoury pasties.
The altar piece with the Last Supper is painted by the Catalan painter Jaume Huguet (1412-1492). Maundy Thursday (on which the last Supper took place) is part of Lent – it is the day before Good Friday – but the roast on the table symbolizes the Lamb of God.
Broom is not really a ‘culinary shrub’, although flower buds and twigs are used in medicins because of their diuretic and laxitative properties and the effect on the heart rithm. There is but a thin line between medical and toxic, so don’t play apothecary. The twigs were also used in the Middle Ages to make brooms with, which might explain the English name for … broom.
The recipe on this page is from the oldest Catalan cookery book still in existence, the Llibre de Sent Soví. It has survived in a manuscript from the beginning of the fifteenth century, but the text itself is older, from the first half of the fourteenth century. It is a compilation of (even older) recipes, and was used in its turn as source for other cookbooks, like the Cuoco Napoletano, a South-Italian cookbook from the fifteenth century (see the recipe for Zabaglione). Many recipes from the Llibre de Sent Sovíwere were also used in two other Catalan manuscripts from the fifteenth century, both now in Barcelona.
The Llibre de Sent Soví opens with an index representing an older version of the text. Of the 91 recipes that the Index mentions, only 58 can be found in the actual cookbook, and 14 recipes from the cookbook are not mentioned in the index. Because one of the manuscripts in Barcelona, the Llibre de apparellar de manjar, has kept all the recipes that were copied from Sent Soví together, 16 more recipes from the original text could be traced. These are incorporated in the edition from 2008. Many of the recipes are for sauces and dishes that were eaten with a spoon, and the very first recipe is one that I have a special place for in my heart: peacock, served with its feathers, with an accompanying sauce.
The Catalan text and English translation are taken from the edition of Santanach and Vogelzang from 2008, pp.94/95 (see bibliography).
In a note to the recipe Santanach explains that, according to other redactions of the recipe (in the two manuscripts from Barcelona) the pine nuts are not boiled, but added at the last moment when the pudding has cooled a little.
The raisins are to be cleansed. Today all raisins are from seedless grapes, but in the past you had to remove the pits from the raisins before using them. That must have been a rather tedious job.
For 4 to 8 persons (depending on the manu, the place of the dish in the menu and the appetite of the guests, it is a filling dish); preparation in advance 35 minutes; preparation 10 minutes.
50 to 60 gr rice flour
60 gr sugar
½ tsp saffron
1 cinnamonstick
3 cloves
50 gr raisins
30 gr pine nuts
1 Tbsp olive oil (optional)
pinch of salt
Make almond milk – Pour boiling water over the ground almonds, add cinnamon and cloves, and let stand for a half hour. Strain, first through a coarse sieve, then a finer meshed sieve or a cheese cloth. Keep cinnamon and cloves.
Roast the pine nuts. Wash the raisins and drain them
Put the almond milk in a pan with sugar and spices.
Add rice flour and mix well using a whisk. Bring to the boil, keep whisking (or stirring) until the almond milk has thickened. This will take a couple of minutes.
Crush the saffron in a small bowl with a tablespoon hot water, and add to the pudding. You can strain it first, but I like to see the saffron in a dish. Add raisins.
Sprinkle the pinenuts over the genestada just before serving.
Not piping hot! Genestada can be served warm or at room temperature, but I liked it best when it was still warm. You serve it in a bowl with a spoon.
All descriptions of ingredients
This is simply ground rice. Rice flour is used a lot in processed baby food, and in Asian cuisines it is used to make noodles. There are two kinds of rice flour, from longgrain rice and from glutinous rice which is typically used in Asian sweets and desserts. Rice is gluten-free, so rice flour is also free from gluten. For this recipe I used rice flour from long grain rice, not from glutinous rice.
These are dried grapes. There are several kinds of raisins, depending on the kind of grape that was used. Sultana’s are NOT raisins a special brand, but the dried berries from the sulatana grape. Currants are original the dried grapes of a grape variety with small berries that was grown in Corinth (Greece). There are more varieties used for raisins, like the Seedless Thompson.
The orange-red stigmas of a crocus. In medieval times (as in modern times) it was used to colour dishes yellow. If you want to have the most effect of the colouring, crush the dried stigmas in a spoonful of hot liquid (water, milk, broth, vinegar, whatever is most fitting for the recipe it is used in).
The editions below were used by me. Links refer to available editions.
A recipe for Medieval Rice-Almond Pudding
‘Genestada’, a recipe for a Catalan dish for Lent from the fourteenth and fifteenth century (the Llibre de Sent Sovi).
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