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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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France

Melon pie from the eighteenth century

Straight to the recipe Deze meloentaart is heerlijk bij koffie of thee, maar in de achttiende eeuw werd hij tegelijk met de tweede gang met vlees- en groentegerechten geserveerd. Het recept komt uit het Hollands of Neederlands kookboek (HNK) uit 1724. Ondanks de patriottische titel heeft dit kookboek vooral uit Franse bronnen geput, met name…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: meloen, orange flower water Gepubliceerd op 30 August 2020Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Jacobin Sops

Straight to the recipe Take 200 capons … This is a recipe from the delightful cookbook Du fait de cuysine by MaĂ®tre Chiquart. He was a cook in the service of Amadeus VIII (1383-1451, also known as the last Antipope Felix V from 1439 to 1449), count and first duke of Savoy. Amadeus was a regular guest at the…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Soup, With meat Tagged With: marrow, chicken, cheese Gepubliceerd op 25 January 2008Laatste wijziging 13 October 2020

Medieval stuffed chicken

Straight to the recipe Pullis iuvenis in tempore estivali This summer I was experimenting with roasting whole chickens on the barbecue, so of course I searched for a medieval recipe too. That was easy, in medieval cuisine roast fowl is standard fare for nobles, and I chose a recipe from the Tractatus de modo preparandi et…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: lard, chicken, barbecue Gepubliceerd op 10 August 2009Laatste wijziging 31 December 2019

Cheese biscuits

Straight to the recipe The first recipes for 2019 both concern hot, mulled wine. To accompany these wines, I have added this recipe for cheese biscuits from a French cookery book that we used for our Christmas dinner 2018: La cuisine de monsieur Momo, cĂ©libataire. This was originally published in 1930. These biscuits were served…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Snack, Savoury pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: cheese, butter Gepubliceerd op 17 January 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Braised Belgian Endives

Straight to the recipe Belgian endives are not widely appreciated. It does not look very attractive once it is cooked, with its grey and slimy exterior. That is why generally speaking, today this vegetable is eaten raw as salad, or only slightly cooked. Imagine my horrified surprise when I read the recipe for Belgian endives…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: belgian endives Gepubliceerd op 14 December 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Fritters from vine leaves

Grape vines do not just yield grapes. During the summer the leaves can be picked and pickled or used straight away. The best-known use of vine leaves is the Greek dolma, where they are used to wrap around rice. However, in this eighteenth-century recipe the vine leaves themselves are the main ingredient. Just in case…

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Filed Under: 18th century, France, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: deep-frying, lime, sugar Gepubliceerd op 7 August 2018Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Jacobin sops for Good Friday

In the introduction to the recipe for Pomegranate Salad I mentioned the only day that the (catholic) French alle ate vegetarian. That is really something special, because ordering a vegetarian dish in an average French restaurant usually results in raised eyebrows and a rather plain meatless dish. The recipe on this page and the recipe…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mushrooms, lent, capers Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Escoffier’s Salsify Fritters

Straight to the recipe The picture shows the garden terrace of the Ritz Hotel in Paris, which openend its doors in 1898. This is one of the legendary hotels that were run by CĂ©sar Ritz (1850-1918) and Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935). I have spend many hours searching for a nineteenth-century painting with black salsify, but alas,…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, France, First course, Side dish, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: deep-frying, salsify Gepubliceerd op 6 January 2009Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Barley soup for a ball

Straight to the recipe Double take The Netherlands celebrated the bicentennial of their existence as a kingdom in 2013. But at the time that was actually 198 years ago, not 200. From 1813 to 1815 the Netherlands were the Souverijne Vorstendom der VerĂ«enigde Nederlanden (the sovereign principality of the united Netherlands). We didn’t have a king, but a prince….

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Filed Under: 19th century, France, Soup, With meat Tagged With: cream, chicken, barley Gepubliceerd op 16 March 2015Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Spinach Pie

This the third recipe for Good Friday. The other recipes are Pomegranate Salad and Jacobin Sops. If one grows spinach in the kitchen garden, or is from an older generation, one might remember the sharp-edged seeds of some varieties of spinach. Spinach had to be washed very thoroughly to remove all those unpleasant seeds. Nowadays…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lent, dough, spinach Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Divine wine

An exquisite drink from the seventeenth century Straight to the recipe During the seventeenth century a meal was often concluded by drinking spiced wine to stimulate the digestion. Hippocras was such a drink, which was already known during the Middle Ages. But there were other kinds of spiced wine as well. Vin des dieux (‘wine of the gods’) is such a spiced wine,…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Beverage Tagged With: citroen, lemon, rode wijn, red wine, appel, apple Gepubliceerd op 17 August 2013Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Eggs with gooseberries

Straight to the recipe An odd but tasty dish Recently I published an article in the periodical De Boekenwereld (The Book World) on Roman Catholic recipes in the eighteenth-century cookery book De Volmaakte Hollandsche Keuken-Meid (The perfect Dutch Kitchen Maid). The indirect cause of that article was a recipe I published on Coquinaria a year ago, a Dish for Lent with prunes…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: egg, gooseberry, lent Gepubliceerd op 7 September 2015Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Vegetarian stock for Lent

Recipes from the seventeenth century During Lent, between carnival and Easter, the catholic church (and after the Reformation several protestant churches as well) restricted the faithful to a meatless diet. During the Middle Ages all diary products were also banned during Lent, later the use of butter was permitted. Almonds were used instead of meat…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lent, peas Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Clean hands

Coquinaria has lots of medieval recipes, but how do you eat these dishes? With your hands! Eating with a fork became the thing to do in upper class European courts during the sixteenth century. Lower classes kept eating with their hands as late as the eighteenth century. Eating your food with fork AND knife is…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France Tagged With: lemon, citroen, salie, sage, orange Gepubliceerd op 1 September 2008Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Coulibiac with chicken, a recipe from CarĂŞme

Straight to the recipe Russian pastry from the classic French cuisine Coulibiac or coulbac is a traditional Russian pie that has been assimilated in to the classic French cuisine as early as the nineteenth century. The Russian name koulibiac has its origins in German: Kohlgeback (pastry with cabbage). Some versions of coulibiac do contain cabbage. The version with…

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Filed Under: 19th century, France, Russia, First course, With meat Tagged With: mushrooms, horseradish, chicken Gepubliceerd op 20 January 2018Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

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