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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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17th century

Pickled anchovies

For the third course of the menu with adapted recipes in the edition of Het excellente kookboek (The Excellent Cookbook) we decided to put some anchovies on the table as well. There is a still life by the German painter Sebastian Stoskopff (1597-1657) with a dish filled with anchovies as centre piece.  It looks like…

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Filed Under: Technique, 17th century, Snack, Condiment, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: salt, anchovy Gepubliceerd op 20 December 2020Laatste wijziging 21 December 2020

Melon pie from the eighteenth century

Straight to the recipe Deze meloentaart is heerlijk bij koffie of thee, maar in de achttiende eeuw werd hij tegelijk met de tweede gang met vlees- en groentegerechten geserveerd. Het recept komt uit het Hollands of Neederlands kookboek (HNK) uit 1724. Ondanks de patriottische titel heeft dit kookboek vooral uit Franse bronnen geput, met name…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: meloen, orange flower water Gepubliceerd op 30 August 2020Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Plum Pie and Pieter Cornelisz Hooft

Straight to the recipe A delicious Dutch pie from the seventeenth century Straight to the recipe Summer is plum season. In Dutch the expression tot in de pruimentijd  (litterally ‘see you in the plum season’) has a special meaning: ‘Until we meet again, whenever that may be’. This expression is commonly ascribed to Pieter Cornelisz. Hooft (1581-1647), but there are…

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Filed Under: 17th century, Netherlands, Dessert, Sweet pastry Tagged With: fruit, plums Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2014Laatste wijziging 13 October 2020

A brief history of pasta – Part 2

To part 1 of the history of pasta When I published two macaroni recipes from World War I, I also added a page on the recent history of the production of macaronipasta. This page can be considered as the ‘prequel’ of that history section: pasta and macaroni from the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century….

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Filed Under: Technique, Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2017Laatste wijziging 15 February 2020

Tourte de fonges

Straight to the recipe Mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau This mushroom pie from 1604 is much more modern than the MĂ©nagier’s from the fourteenth century. No spices and sugar, but herbs to bring the stuffing to taste. The recipe comes from the Ouverture de cuisine, published in 1604 by Lancelot de Casteau. He was, according…

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Filed Under: 16th century, 17th century, Belgium, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mint, cheese, mushrooms Gepubliceerd op 13 November 2010Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Jacobin sops for Good Friday

In the introduction to the recipe for Pomegranate Salad I mentioned the only day that the (catholic) French alle ate vegetarian. That is really something special, because ordering a vegetarian dish in an average French restaurant usually results in raised eyebrows and a rather plain meatless dish. The recipe on this page and the recipe…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: capers, mushrooms, lent Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Spinach Pie

This the third recipe for Good Friday. The other recipes are Pomegranate Salad and Jacobin Sops. If one grows spinach in the kitchen garden, or is from an older generation, one might remember the sharp-edged seeds of some varieties of spinach. Spinach had to be washed very thoroughly to remove all those unpleasant seeds. Nowadays…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: spinach, dough, lent Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Divine wine

An exquisite drink from the seventeenth century Straight to the recipe During the seventeenth century a meal was often concluded by drinking spiced wine to stimulate the digestion. Hippocras was such a drink, which was already known during the Middle Ages. But there were other kinds of spiced wine as well. Vin des dieux (‘wine of the gods’) is such a spiced wine,…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Beverage Tagged With: lemon, red wine, apple, appel, rode wijn, citroen Gepubliceerd op 17 August 2013Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Eggs with gooseberries

Straight to the recipe An odd but tasty dish Recently I published an article in the periodical De Boekenwereld (The Book World) on Roman Catholic recipes in the eighteenth-century cookery book De Volmaakte Hollandsche Keuken-Meid (The perfect Dutch Kitchen Maid). The indirect cause of that article was a recipe I published on Coquinaria a year ago, a Dish for Lent with prunes…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lent, egg, gooseberry Gepubliceerd op 7 September 2015Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Vegetarian stock for Lent

Recipes from the seventeenth century During Lent, between carnival and Easter, the catholic church (and after the Reformation several protestant churches as well) restricted the faithful to a meatless diet. During the Middle Ages all diary products were also banned during Lent, later the use of butter was permitted. Almonds were used instead of meat…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: peas, lent Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Lemonade

Een French recipe from the seventeenth century Straight to the recipe   A very simple recipe, because I am in the middle of moving house (summer 2007), and have been very busy. Where does the word lemonade come from? Lemonade comes from ‘lemon’ or the French ‘limon’. Another French word for lemon is citron, which is…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Beverage Tagged With: orange, lemon Gepubliceerd op 11 November 2007Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Tuna with mustard crust

Straight to the recipe A spicy Walloon dish from the sixteenth century Last year I published a recipe for mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau, the sixteenth-century cook for several bishops of the Prince-Bishopric Liège, and I promised to revisit this cookbook soon. Not a lot is known about Lancelot de Casteau. He was born in Mons, lived…

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Filed Under: 16th century, 17th century, Belgium, First course, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: tuna, mustard, coriander Gepubliceerd op 22 August 2011Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

La Varenne’s meat stock

This is the first ‘historical’ recipe for stock on my site. This meat stock is taken from Le cuisinier françois by François Pierre la Varenne, from 1651. It is the opening recipe in the book, a real basic recipe. The stock is made with a lot of meat, and all kinds of it: beef, mutton, fowl. From…

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Filed Under: Technique, 17th century, France, Soup, With meat Tagged With: chicken, beef, lamb meat Gepubliceerd op 27 March 2007Laatste wijziging 2 December 2019

Pickle Herring, the ‘forgotten fish’

It is time to change that! In February 2016 I organized a cookery course for the first time in nearly ten years, with members of the re-enactment group Het Woud der Verwachting (litt: ‘the forest of expectation’, after a historical novel by the Dutch author Hella Haasse). The menu was in concordance with the date of the course:…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, Netherlands, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: herring, salt, lent Gepubliceerd op 16 February 2018Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Stuffed meatballs in lettuce

Straight to the recipe And about the history of a typically Dutch snack, the ‘frikandel’ The original recipe on this page is called Om Frickedillen in Krop-salaet te maken (to make frickedillen in lettuce). According to Dutch dictionaries, a ‘ frikadel’ is obsolete for meatball, and ‘frikandel’ is vernacular and incorrect. The Frickedillen from the recipe below are indeed meatballs, prepared…

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Filed Under: 17th century, Netherlands, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: egg, veal, lettuce Gepubliceerd op 4 September 2002Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

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