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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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First course

An old family recipe

I have good memories of this salad. My grandmother (on the right, with me on her lap) prepared it during long vacations during the summer in Maastricht, the Southern-most city of the Netherlands, when it was very hot. My mother also had it on her repertoire as an easy meal during heatwaves. So this is…

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Filed Under: Traditional, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, First course, Main dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: potato, heat wave, salad Gepubliceerd op 5 May 2020Laatste wijziging 1 November 2021

Parsnip salad

Straight to the recipe A sixteenth-century Dutch recipe This winter salad for parsnips is taken from a Dutch cookbook from the middle of the sixteenth century. It is a translation from a recipe by the Italian humanist Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi) inĀ De honeste voluptateĀ (published in 1474,Ā edition Milham, see bibliography). The Dutch cookbook bears the titleĀ Eenen nyeuwen…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: parsnip, salad, coriander Gepubliceerd op 30 December 2003Laatste wijziging 8 October 2020

Chicken breast with blackberry sauce

A fifteenth-century recipe from Italy Straight to the recipe The colour of food is important to the way in which we experience it. Food wich is green, golden, white or red is thought of as tasty food. Food wich looks blue is less attractive. Ingredients wich are blue-coloured by nature are very few. All that…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, First course, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: blackberries, chicken Gepubliceerd op 1 July 2002Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Real Dutch kroket and bitterbal

The picture shows my daughter and some of her friends at her birthday party many years ago (in 2002). As part of the festivities they were preparing their own meal, the standard birthday fare for a lot of Dutch children in the past: kroketten, French fries and apple sauce, but everything made from scratch. They…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With meat Tagged With: deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 9 January 2006Laatste wijziging 22 December 2019

Tourte de fonges

Straight to the recipe Mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau This mushroom pie from 1604 is much more modern than the MĆ©nagier’s from the fourteenth century. No spices and sugar, but herbs to bring the stuffing to taste. The recipe comes from theĀ Ouverture de cuisine, published in 1604 by Lancelot de Casteau. He was, according…

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Filed Under: 16th century, 17th century, Belgium, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mushrooms, mint, cheese Gepubliceerd op 13 November 2010Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Traditional Dutch herring salad

The Dutch are famous for eating ‘Dutch new’ or ‘matjes’ herring, which is essentially still raw. Tourists stare with fascinated abhorrence at those strange people who let the fish slide down their throats with extatic expressions on their face. But why would this be any less delicious than eating Japanese sashimi? And the herring is…

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Filed Under: Traditional, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: potato, herring, salad, sylvester Gepubliceerd op 28 December 2017Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Salade Russe the Russian Way

Straight to the recipe A recipe from 1866 The choice for this recipe is the result of a lecture I gave at theĀ Museum HermitageĀ in Amsterdam in October 2014. The lecture was complementary to the exhibitionĀ Dining with the Czars, which is open for visitors until April 2015. At the end of my presentation all the guests…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Russia, Lucheon dish, First course, With meat, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: beef, beets, veal, salmon, sauerkraut Gepubliceerd op 30 November 2014Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Smoked salmon (and other smoked food)

Not difficult to do, and very good Straight to the recipe On the Dutch part of my site there are some recipes for smoked fish. I have received several requests for an English version of these recipes, so here you are. Smoking is a very ancient way to conserve food. In the past, when most…

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Filed Under: Modern, First course, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: mustard, salmon, dill Gepubliceerd op 7 March 2005Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Surprise Eggs

Straight to the recipe A Dutch recipe from the eighteenth century This decorative dish consists of whole, emptied eggs shells that are stuffed with raw eggs with crayfish and mushrooms and heated until the stuffing has congealed. When the eggs have been peeled and placed on a dish, they will be a very attractive side…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: mushrooms, crayfish, egg Gepubliceerd op 24 April 2018Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Pasties with sweetbread

Straight to the recipe What Johann Sebastian Bach might have eaten in Leipzig The connection between the pasties and the famous GermanĀ baroqueĀ composer Johann SebastianĀ BachĀ (1685-1750) is tenuous; a few years after Susanna Eger had published her cookbook (in 1706),Ā J.S. BachĀ accepted the situation of cantor in the Lutheran Thomaskirche inĀ Leipzig. He wouldĀ work there from 1723 until his…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Germany, Snack, Savoury pastry, First course, With meat Tagged With: parsley, chicken, sweetbread Gepubliceerd op 1 November 2012Laatste wijziging 10 December 2019

Vol-au-vent with fish

A pescetarian alternative for ragoĆ»t with meat Recently I have published the recipe for vol-au-vent with ragoĆ»t of chicken meat. That once was a classic Dutch first course for Christmas dinner. Here is an alternative for people who do not eat meat, but do eat fish. This ragoĆ»t can also be used as stuffing for…

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Filed Under: Modern, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: fish, christmas, dill, shrimp Gepubliceerd op 12 May 2018Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Escoffier’s Salsify Fritters

Straight to the recipe The picture shows the garden terrace of the Ritz Hotel in Paris, which openend its doors in 1898. This is one of the legendary hotels that were run by CĆ©sar Ritz (1850-1918) and Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935). I have spend many hours searching for a nineteenth-century painting with black salsify, but alas,…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, France, First course, Side dish, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: deep-frying, salsify Gepubliceerd op 6 January 2009Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Scappi’s Macaroni

Straight to the recipe A lot of work, but also a lot of fun The previous historical recipe on Coquinaria consisted of three parts:Ā two recipes for macaroniĀ from World War One, and a pageĀ on the production of industrial pressed macaroni. There is also a page with part two of the history of making macaroni and other…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Pasta, First course, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: rozenwater, kaneel, kaas, saffraan, saffron, milk, melk, cheese, suiker Gepubliceerd op 14 October 2017Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Chicken Salad

What to do with soup chicken What to do with all the tasty chicken meat from the boiling hen when you have madeĀ chicken stock? This recipe for chicken salad is better with meat from a boiling hen than with a pale chicken breast. It tastes great on toast or on bread, or it can be…

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Filed Under: Modern, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With meat Tagged With: raisins, salad, mayonnaise Gepubliceerd op 8 January 2006Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Sauces for broiled fish

Fish played a prominent role in the daily diet throughout the Catholic Middle Ages, because during set periods and days the eating of meat was forbidden.Ā LentĀ is the most extended and strict period of dietary restrictions, because not only meat, but all animal produce (butter, cheese, eggs) were prohibited foodstuff. On the weekly fast days the…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: gooseberry, butter, capers Gepubliceerd op 30 April 2004Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

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