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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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Sweet pastry

Chestnut Pie

Straight to the recipe Chestnut are a symbol of autumn, whether they are the toxic horse chestnuts that are so much fun for children to play with (it’s safe, as long as you don’t eat them), or delicious sweet chestnuts. This is not the first recipe with chestnuts (Castanea sativa) on Coquinaria, but this is…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Germany, Sweet pastry Tagged With: rose water, chestnut, amandelen Gepubliceerd op 21 October 2020Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Melon pie from the eighteenth century

Straight to the recipe Deze meloentaart is heerlijk bij koffie of thee, maar in de achttiende eeuw werd hij tegelijk met de tweede gang met vlees- en groentegerechten geserveerd. Het recept komt uit het Hollands of Neederlands kookboek (HNK) uit 1724. Ondanks de patriottische titel heeft dit kookboek vooral uit Franse bronnen geput, met name…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: meloen, orange flower water Gepubliceerd op 30 August 2020Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Plum Pie and Pieter Cornelisz Hooft

Straight to the recipe A delicious Dutch pie from the seventeenth century Straight to the recipe Summer is plum season. In Dutch the expression tot in de pruimentijd  (litterally ‘see you in the plum season’) has a special meaning: ‘Until we meet again, whenever that may be’. This expression is commonly ascribed to Pieter Cornelisz. Hooft (1581-1647), but there are…

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Filed Under: 17th century, Netherlands, Dessert, Sweet pastry Tagged With: fruit, plums Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2014Laatste wijziging 13 October 2020

Mille-feuille the Dutch way

Straight to the recipe Tompouce is the Dutch version of mille-feuille. It is popular throughout the year, but on some days, it is almost traditional to eat this pastry. And on those days, the tompouce is not decorated with the customary pink glaze, but with orange glaze to emphasize the connection to our royal family…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Traditional, Netherlands, Sweet pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: egg, dough Gepubliceerd op 8 May 2020Laatste wijziging 8 May 2020

Excellent almond cookies

Straight to the recipe In the Middle Ages, cookies were served during the banquet or the final course of a festive meal, along with fresh or preserved fruit and spiced wine. During the sixteenth century the Italians even started their meals with sweet cookies, according to the menus provided by Bartolomeo Scappi (Opera, 1570, see…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: almond, anise, coriander Gepubliceerd op 3 May 2020Laatste wijziging 3 May 2020

Dough – The basics

Straight to the list with basic recipes and historical recipes with dough Preparing dough is a question of touching and feeling. Basic ingredients are flour, water and salt. Eggs, butter and shortening can also be used, and instead of water other liquids can be added, like white wine. The recipes here are mostly based on…

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Excellent cookies

  This is a recipe for small but rich cookies. High tea is not customary in the Netherlands, but we do serve a biscuit or cookie with a cup of coffee or tea, in the morning as well as in the afternoon. At what time of the day would these cookies have been served in the eighteenth…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: raisins, cinnamon, cloves Gepubliceerd op 21 November 2007Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Quince pie

Straight to the recipe A very special pie from the sixteenth century There is a growing interest for vegetables and fruit from the past. Compared to, say the seventeenth century, the variety in apples, pears and plumbs has become less and less. Nowadays it is mainly those varieties that are easy to grow, have a high…

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Filed Under: Belgium, Netherlands, Dessert, Sweet pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: quince, almond Gepubliceerd op 25 October 2004Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Puff pastry

On Coquinaria are several historical recipes for puff pastry. On this page is a modern version. While I was searching online I saw some recipes for puff pastry that are actually just for flaky dough. Puff pastry is a kind of flaky dough, but to make puff pastry it takes something extra. Because just folding…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Savoury pastry, Sweet pastry Tagged With: butter, dough Gepubliceerd op 2 January 2018Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

White tourte, a favourite of Pope Julius III

Straight to the recipe Sweet Italian pastry from the sixteenth century In the Netherlands we are used to abdications. This year, 2013, our queen Beatrix will hand over the throne to her son Willem Alexander, as her mother Juliana did thirty three years ago, and her grandmother Wilhelmina in 1948. But an abdicating pope has not…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Sweet pastry Tagged With: rose water, egg, cream Gepubliceerd op 28 February 2013Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Traditional Dutch Banketletter

“Keep it simple: start with an I” The banketletter is one of the few traditional Dutch Christmas bakes, as most Dutch December bakes are actually done for the national children’s feast Sinterklaas on December 5th. Most people just buy it in the stores, and I must admit that it takes some work to make a…

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Filed Under: Traditional, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: rose water, egg, dough Gepubliceerd op 2 January 2018Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Deep-fried braids(Dafâir)

Straight to the recipe An Arab recipe from the thirteenth century Arab pastry is delicious. Sweet and rich, but really delicious. This was already so in medieval times on, when sweet pastry was served after a meal. You can imagine that after a copious meal with a plethora of mouth-watering dishes the pastry had to be very…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Arabian, Dessert, Sweet pastry Tagged With: sourdough, saffron, honey Gepubliceerd op 18 January 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Sponge cake for trifle

Straight to the recipe Mrs Beeton’s recipe Trifle is built on a layer of sponge cake. Since I have used Mrs Beeton‘s recipe for trifle from the Book of Household Management (1861, it was logical to use her recipe for sponge cake too. She even states explicitly that ‘leftover’ sponge cake can be used for trifle and pudding. The cake…

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Filed Under: 19th century, England, Sweet pastry Tagged With: sugar, flour, egg Gepubliceerd op 3 November 2013Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Ratafia

For Victorian trifle, but also excellent with tea or coffee Mrs Beeton uses two kinds of cookies with almonds in her recipe for trifle: macaroons and ratafias. Macaroons only contain sweet almonds, ratafia also contain a portion of bitter almonds. She provides recipes to make these at home in her Book of household management (recipes 1744 and 1745, on p.851…

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Filed Under: 19th century, England, Sweet pastry Tagged With: almond Gepubliceerd op 22 December 2017Laatste wijziging 7 December 2019

Dutch speculaas with almond paste

Speculaasjes are good, speculaas with almond paste is better. The version bought in Dutch shops is often a little on the dry side, but maybe that is just me. The recipe on this page is enough for almost 4 pounds of very rich (=fat) stuffed speculaas. It is easy to make the half amount, however, even…

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Filed Under: Traditional, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: sugar, almond Gepubliceerd op 29 October 2004Laatste wijziging 5 December 2019

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Het excellente kookboek

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