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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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Italy

Roman chestnuts

Straight to the recipe High in carbohydrates, low-fat, gluten free Edible chestnuts were probably introduced in the Netherlands by the Romans. Dutch summers do not always yield ripe chestnuts, but usually enough chestnuts can be gathered under a tame chestnut tree for a nice meal. The picture on the right shows two ancient tame chestnut trees in the…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: kastanje, honey, wijnruit, chestnut, rue Gepubliceerd op 29 February 2016Laatste wijziging 21 October 2020

Veal Mortadella

Straight to the recipe A fifteenth-century antipasto Modern Mortadella is an Italian sausage originating from Bologna, with pink meat, speckled with little chunks of porkfat, peppercorns and pistacchios and/or olives. The sausage is cooked and lightly smoked. The pinkish hue is caused by saltpetre. Mortadella is imitated a lot throughout the world. The American imitation is called…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: veal, cheese Gepubliceerd op 25 February 2006Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Zabaglione

Straight to the recipe Unchanged through the centuries There was no country called Italy in the Middle Ages. There was a peninsula, divided into small counties and duchies, and the Vatican of course. But the Italian (regional) kitchen had already those characteristics it still has today. Elsewhere on this site you’ll find recipes for sixteenth-century…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, Dessert Tagged With: cinnamon, strawberries, egg Gepubliceerd op 9 January 2010Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Chicken breast with blackberry sauce

A fifteenth-century recipe from Italy Straight to the recipe The colour of food is important to the way in which we experience it. Food wich is green, golden, white or red is thought of as tasty food. Food wich looks blue is less attractive. Ingredients wich are blue-coloured by nature are very few. All that…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, First course, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: blackberries, chicken Gepubliceerd op 1 July 2002Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

A brief history of pasta – Part 2

To part 1 of the history of pasta When I published two macaroni recipes from World War I, I also added a page on the recent history of the production of macaronipasta. This page can be considered as the ‘prequel’ of that history section: pasta and macaroni from the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century….

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Filed Under: Technique, Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2017Laatste wijziging 15 February 2020

Lucanian sausages

Straight to the recipe An ancient Roman delicacy In June 2012 I gave a talk about Roman Food at the Roman Festival in Nijmegen, the Netherlands. This inspired me to try my hand at preparing Lucanicae, one of the recipes for sausages in the Roman cookery book De re coquinaria. I have written more on this book in my notes on other…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: rue, pork, garum Gepubliceerd op 28 June 2012Laatste wijziging 2 February 2020

Broccoli in the ‘Opera’

Straight to the recipe The Opera from this recipe has nothing to do with music, and everything with the opus magnus of Italian cook Bartolomeo Scappi, which appeared in print in 1570. Opera means ‘the work’ (in Italian, in Latin it would have been ‘the works’). Nowadays the cookbook is mainly known for its magnificent engravings which illustrate all kinds of…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: knoflook, garlic, broccoli Gepubliceerd op 19 February 2009Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Home Made Italian Pasta

The Italians are famous for their pasta. On this page you learn how to make fresh pasta, with eggs and without eggs, and for stuffed pasta like ravioli and tortellini. Asian pasta is also delicious. See here for recipes. And for those of you who are interested in the past, here are recipes for fresh pasta from the sixteenth century. And…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Italy, Pasta Tagged With: egg Gepubliceerd op 12 July 2004Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

White tourte, a favourite of Pope Julius III

Straight to the recipe Sweet Italian pastry from the sixteenth century In the Netherlands we are used to abdications. This year, 2013, our queen Beatrix will hand over the throne to her son Willem Alexander, as her mother Juliana did thirty three years ago, and her grandmother Wilhelmina in 1948. But an abdicating pope has not…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Sweet pastry Tagged With: rose water, cream, egg Gepubliceerd op 28 February 2013Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

A brief pasta history – Part 1

To part two of the history of pasta It has happened to me before. I start working on a historical recipe that does not seem to be too complicated. But then the questions arise, one after the other … Long macaroni When I was working on two recipes with macaroni  from the First World War…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 13 October 2017Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Scappi’s Macaroni

Straight to the recipe A lot of work, but also a lot of fun The previous historical recipe on Coquinaria consisted of three parts: two recipes for macaroni from World War One, and a page on the production of industrial pressed macaroni. There is also a page with part two of the history of making macaroni and other…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Pasta, First course, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With meat Tagged With: rozenwater, kaas, kaneel, melk, milk, suiker, cheese, saffraan, saffron Gepubliceerd op 14 October 2017Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Roman fish sauce

Garum or liquamen Garum is one of the basic ingredients in the cuisine of Roman antiquity. It is a fish sauce that was used to salt dishes. One can’t simply use kitchen salt in recipes, because instead of extracting moisture (which is what salt does), garum adds moisture to a dish. When preparing an authentic Roman dish, this sauce is…

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Filed Under: Technique, Roman, Italy, Condiment Tagged With: mint, salt, sardine Gepubliceerd op 24 April 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Roman patina with herbs

Straight to the recipe In the introduction to the recipe for Roman patina with asparagus and quail I wrote about this dish. On this page is another recipe for patina with asparagus, without meat but with green herbs. I also used green asparagus this time. The cilantro and lovage leaves add a very distinct flavour to this…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: lovage, asparagus, cilantro, egg Gepubliceerd op 24 April 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Game sauce Ă  la Bolognese

With leftover meat from making game stock When you have made a concentrated game stock, you can sometimes save enough meat from the bones to make a tasty sauce. I had six kilo bones of hare and deer. When I had strained the stock I had almost one kilo of cooked meat. Being Dutch, I wouldn’t…

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Filed Under: Modern, Italy, Pasta, First course, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: red wine, carrot, game Gepubliceerd op 7 January 2006Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Red mustard the Roman way

Straight to the recipe This is not the first recipe for mustard on Coquinaria. The first mustard-recipe, from the fourteenth-century cookbook Le MĂ©nagier de Paris, was published fifteen years ago. Mustard in the Middle Ages and Early Modern Times is comparable to tomato ketchup or soy sauce in some restaurants: there is a bottle on…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Italy, Netherlands, Condiment Tagged With: raisins, mustard, rozijnen, bread, cinnamon Gepubliceerd op 21 February 2018Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

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