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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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19th century

Capon with caper-sauce

Straight to the recipe Prepared ‘Ă  la braise’ A delicious dish from the nineteenth century that is easy to prepare. How delicious exactly, depends on the poultry (a real capon -mouthwatering but expensive-, a good poularde -very tasty as well-, or the watery pale poor industrial chicken -bleh-) and the stock you use (homemade chicken stock or a…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Germany, Netherlands, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: chicken, sauce, capers Gepubliceerd op 2 May 2002Laatste wijziging 10 June 2021

Herb soup with potato dumplings

Straight to the recipe A delicate herald of Spring The text for this recipe is from a cookbook from the nineteenth century, but in fact the recipe is older. In Le cuisinier from Pierre de Lune (1656) there is a ‘potage the santĂ©’ with sorrel, purslane, chervil and herbs, and no doubt there are other comparable recipes. Two…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Germany, Netherlands, Soup, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lettuce, tarragon, sorrel, purslane, potato, parsley Gepubliceerd op 27 April 2006Laatste wijziging 10 June 2021

Tamarind ice-cream

Straight to the recipe An exotic flavour from the nineteenth century   Last year I had the good fortune to attend a Georgian Cookery Course by the British food historian Ivan Day. He does not bother his pupils with adapted recipes, but lets them work with the original cookery books and if possible with contemporary cooking tools and…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, England, Dessert Tagged With: ice cream, tamarind Gepubliceerd op 25 August 2015Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Nineteenth-century Anchovy Toast

The recipe on this page was my Christmas card from 2018. Christine Charlotte Riedl The illustration above is from the Lindauer Kochbuch that contains the recipe for anchovy toast. This is a German cookery book that has been in print from the middle of the nineteenth century to 1925. The full title is the Lindauer…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Germany, Snack, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: capers, anchovy Gepubliceerd op 22 October 2020Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Mille-feuille the Dutch way

Straight to the recipe Tompouce is the Dutch version of mille-feuille. It is popular throughout the year, but on some days, it is almost traditional to eat this pastry. And on those days, the tompouce is not decorated with the customary pink glaze, but with orange glaze to emphasize the connection to our royal family…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Traditional, Netherlands, Sweet pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: dough, egg Gepubliceerd op 8 May 2020Laatste wijziging 8 May 2020

Cheese biscuits

Straight to the recipe The first recipes for 2019 both concern hot, mulled wine. To accompany these wines, I have added this recipe for cheese biscuits from a French cookery book that we used for our Christmas dinner 2018: La cuisine de monsieur Momo, cĂ©libataire. This was originally published in 1930. These biscuits were served…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Snack, Savoury pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: cheese, butter Gepubliceerd op 17 January 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Braised Belgian Endives

Straight to the recipe Belgian endives are not widely appreciated. It does not look very attractive once it is cooked, with its grey and slimy exterior. That is why generally speaking, today this vegetable is eaten raw as salad, or only slightly cooked. Imagine my horrified surprise when I read the recipe for Belgian endives…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: belgian endives Gepubliceerd op 14 December 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Salade Russe the Russian Way

Straight to the recipe A recipe from 1866 The choice for this recipe is the result of a lecture I gave at the Museum Hermitage in Amsterdam in October 2014. The lecture was complementary to the exhibition Dining with the Czars, which is open for visitors until April 2015. At the end of my presentation all the guests…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Russia, Lucheon dish, First course, With meat, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: veal, sauerkraut, salmon, beef, beets Gepubliceerd op 30 November 2014Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Russian stock

Meat stock from the nineteenth century Soup is an important part of the Eastern-European kitchen. In the Gift for young housewives, a Russian cookery book that was first published in 1861, there is a recipe for basic bouillon that can be used for all kinds of soup. The recipes for the soups themselves contain variations…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, Russia, Soup, With meat Tagged With: mushrooms, dill, beef Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Escoffier’s Salsify Fritters

Straight to the recipe The picture shows the garden terrace of the Ritz Hotel in Paris, which openend its doors in 1898. This is one of the legendary hotels that were run by CĂ©sar Ritz (1850-1918) and Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935). I have spend many hours searching for a nineteenth-century painting with black salsify, but alas,…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, France, First course, Side dish, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: deep-frying, salsify Gepubliceerd op 6 January 2009Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

A brief pasta history – Part 1

To part two of the history of pasta It has happened to me before. I start working on a historical recipe that does not seem to be too complicated. But then the questions arise, one after the other … Long macaroni When I was working on two recipes with macaroni  from the First World War…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 13 October 2017Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Barley soup for a ball

Straight to the recipe Double take The Netherlands celebrated the bicentennial of their existence as a kingdom in 2013. But at the time that was actually 198 years ago, not 200. From 1813 to 1815 the Netherlands were the Souverijne Vorstendom der VerĂ«enigde Nederlanden (the sovereign principality of the united Netherlands). We didn’t have a king, but a prince….

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Filed Under: 19th century, France, Soup, With meat Tagged With: chicken, cream, barley Gepubliceerd op 16 March 2015Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Dutch barley soup

Straight to the recipe This barley soup is not French haute cuisine as CarĂŞme’s recipe is. It is Dutch and was published in Aaltje, de volmaakte en zuinige keukenmeid (‘Aaltje, the perfect and thrifty cook’), a popular cookery book from the early nineteenth century (1803). In fact it was so popular that in 1887 a teacher of house economics, Odilia Corver, thought to…

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Filed Under: 18th century, 19th century, Netherlands, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With meat Tagged With: celery, barley Gepubliceerd op 16 March 2015Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Coulibiac with chicken, a recipe from CarĂŞme

Straight to the recipe Russian pastry from the classic French cuisine Coulibiac or coulbac is a traditional Russian pie that has been assimilated in to the classic French cuisine as early as the nineteenth century. The Russian name koulibiac has its origins in German: Kohlgeback (pastry with cabbage). Some versions of coulibiac do contain cabbage. The version with…

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Filed Under: 19th century, France, Russia, First course, With meat Tagged With: chicken, horseradish, mushrooms Gepubliceerd op 20 January 2018Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Soup with Sauerkraut? Delicious!

Straight to the recipe A Russian recipe from 1861 During my preparations for a presentation in October 2014 in the Hermitage Museum in Amsterdam for a talk in the accompanying program for the exhibition Dining with the Czars, I experimented with several Russian nineteen-century recipes. I have adapted one of those recipes, a soup, for this page. The…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Russia, Soup, With meat Tagged With: winter dishes, sauerkraut, mushrooms Gepubliceerd op 8 May 2016Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

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