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Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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Side dish

Medieval apple sauce

Disgustingly healthy! Apple sauce is a medieval relic. It was a popular dish, considering the many recipes for apple sauce that can be found in medieval cookbooks all over Europe. Some of those recipes are rather unusual, like the following recipe for apple sauce with … fish liver! The recipe’s title is ‘appelmoes in de vastene’ (apple…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, Netherlands, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: ginger, lent, saffron, almond, apple Gepubliceerd op 21 December 2006Laatste wijziging 20 July 2021

Cherry custard from the sixteenth century

This recipe is from The Excellent Cookbook from Carolus Battus, published in 1593. Marleen Willbrands and I (Christianne Muusers) have published an edition of this cookbook, with a facsimile and translation in modern Dutch and introduction on the life and works of the author, sixteenth-century views on haelth and diet, kitchenware and cuisine of the…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Dessert Tagged With: cinnamon Gepubliceerd op 30 December 2020Laatste wijziging 31 December 2020

Roman chestnuts

Straight to the recipe High in carbohydrates, low-fat, gluten free Edible chestnuts were probably introduced in the Netherlands by the Romans. Dutch summers do not always yield ripe chestnuts, but usually enough chestnuts can be gathered under a tame chestnut tree for a nice meal. The picture on the right shows two ancient tame chestnut trees in the…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: kastanje, honey, wijnruit, rue, chestnut Gepubliceerd op 29 February 2016Laatste wijziging 21 October 2020

Parsnip salad

Straight to the recipe A sixteenth-century Dutch recipe This winter salad for parsnips is taken from a Dutch cookbook from the middle of the sixteenth century. It is a translation from a recipe by the Italian humanist Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi) in De honeste voluptate (published in 1474, edition Milham, see bibliography). The Dutch cookbook bears the title Eenen nyeuwen…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: parsnip, salad, coriander Gepubliceerd op 30 December 2003Laatste wijziging 8 October 2020

Medieval onion stew

Straight to the recipe The recipe for this nourishing dish has survived in several medieval English manuscripts. Although it is not stated explicitly, the dish is typically meant for Lent. It contains olive oil and almond milk, and lacks any meat or dairy products. The main ingredient are onions. In the picture a man and…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, Main dish, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: onion, lent, almond Gepubliceerd op 21 February 2020Laatste wijziging 21 February 2020

Braised Belgian Endives

Straight to the recipe Belgian endives are not widely appreciated. It does not look very attractive once it is cooked, with its grey and slimy exterior. That is why generally speaking, today this vegetable is eaten raw as salad, or only slightly cooked. Imagine my horrified surprise when I read the recipe for Belgian endives…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: belgian endives Gepubliceerd op 14 December 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Medieval bread with fennel and lard

Straight to the recipe Recipes for bread from the distant past are rare. The recipe on this page was inspired by the description in the Nyeuwen cooc boeck (New Cook Book) by Gheeraert Vorselman (edition Cockx-Indestege 1971, see bibliography). Actually this is a description of a kind of flat, unleavened bread, but I added yeast…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: fennel, venkel, spek, smoked pork, boekweit, buckwheat Gepubliceerd op 21 May 2005Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Broccoli in the ‘Opera’

Straight to the recipe The Opera from this recipe has nothing to do with music, and everything with the opus magnus of Italian cook Bartolomeo Scappi, which appeared in print in 1570. Opera means ‘the work’ (in Italian, in Latin it would have been ‘the works’). Nowadays the cookbook is mainly known for its magnificent engravings which illustrate all kinds of…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: knoflook, garlic, broccoli Gepubliceerd op 19 February 2009Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Rice Pudding for Lent

Straight to the recipe This fourteenth-century recipe is especially for Lent, the period between carnival and Easter. Meat and dairy products were banned from the table (see the recipe for Fake Fish), and inventive cooks would create delicate dishes within these limitations, even though meals during Lent should be sober occasions. This sweet almond-rice pudding with raisins…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Spain, Side dish, Dessert, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lent, rice, sugar, almond, saffron Gepubliceerd op 24 February 2011Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Sup with prunes and raisins

Straight to the recipe A dish for Lent This recipe for a ‘sup’ from the middle of the eighteenth century demonstrates the original meaning of the word soep (soup in English). The (toasted) bread at the bottom of the dish soaks in the juices of the dish, and adds filling carbohydrates to it. Often the…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Dessert, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: witte wijn, gedroogde pruim, prune, raisins, white wine, rozijnen Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2014Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Fritters from vine leaves

Grape vines do not just yield grapes. During the summer the leaves can be picked and pickled or used straight away. The best-known use of vine leaves is the Greek dolma, where they are used to wrap around rice. However, in this eighteenth-century recipe the vine leaves themselves are the main ingredient. Just in case…

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Filed Under: 18th century, France, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lime, sugar, deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 7 August 2018Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Escoffier’s Salsify Fritters

Straight to the recipe The picture shows the garden terrace of the Ritz Hotel in Paris, which openend its doors in 1898. This is one of the legendary hotels that were run by César Ritz (1850-1918) and Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935). I have spend many hours searching for a nineteenth-century painting with black salsify, but alas,…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, France, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With meat Tagged With: salsify, deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 6 January 2009Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Mulahwaja

Straight to the recipe A recipe from 1001 nights There are few Europeans who can read and understand Arabic, let alone medieval Arabic, and I am not one of them. That is why the translation in English of the tenth century Kitāb al-Ţabīkh of al-Warrāq from Nawal Nasrallah is so valuable (also literally, the book is quite…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Arabian, Main dish, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: lamb meat, koriander, lamsvlees, coriander, rue Gepubliceerd op 15 April 2009Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Gooseberry Omelette

Straight to the recipe A sixteenth-century Dutch recipe The recipe for omelette (tasey) balances on te edge of what we could name the culinary Middle Ages. It is taken from the Seer excellenten gheexperimenteerden nieuwen Coc-boeck (The very excellent and tried new cookbook) that the physician Karel Baten (Carolus Battus) published as appendix to the second edition of…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: gooseberry, egg Gepubliceerd op 28 April 2008Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Sauces for broiled fish

Fish played a prominent role in the daily diet throughout the Catholic Middle Ages, because during set periods and days the eating of meat was forbidden. Lent is the most extended and strict period of dietary restrictions, because not only meat, but all animal produce (butter, cheese, eggs) were prohibited foodstuff. On the weekly fast days the…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: gooseberry, capers, butter Gepubliceerd op 30 April 2004Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

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