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Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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  • Recipes for Lent
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Side dish

Spinach Pie

This the third recipe for Good Friday. The other recipes are Pomegranate Salad and Jacobin Sops. If one grows spinach in the kitchen garden, or is from an older generation, one might remember the sharp-edged seeds of some varieties of spinach. Spinach had to be washed very thoroughly to remove all those unpleasant seeds. Nowadays…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: dough, lent, spinach Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Nourishing square omelette

Straight to the recipe Medieval stuffed omelette with marrow Some years ago I prepared a menu in the Culinair-historisch Kookmuseum (‘culinary cookery museum’) in Appelscha in the North of the Netherlands, consisting of medieval recipes with marrow from first course to dessert. The menu was called To the bone (Tot op het bot). The recipe below was one of…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, Lucheon dish, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With meat Tagged With: egg, marrow, parsley Gepubliceerd op 17 September 2013Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Eggs with gooseberries

Straight to the recipe An odd but tasty dish Recently I published an article in the periodical De Boekenwereld (The Book World) on Roman Catholic recipes in the eighteenth-century cookery book De Volmaakte Hollandsche Keuken-Meid (The perfect Dutch Kitchen Maid). The indirect cause of that article was a recipe I published on Coquinaria a year ago, a Dish for Lent with prunes…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: egg, gooseberry, lent Gepubliceerd op 7 September 2015Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Arabian meatballs

Straight to the recipe Tasty tidbits The recipe on this page was prepared, together with Arabian pasties, clareit and medieval wafers, for the opening of an exhibition in the Utrecht University Museum on the medieval text Sidrac. The focus was on the Middle Dutch translation, Sidrac. There is also a late-medieval translation of this text, Sidrak…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Arabian, Snack, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: almond, amandel, korianderblad, lamb meat, lamsvlees, rue, wijnruit Gepubliceerd op 27 August 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Black salsify with parsley sauce

Straight to the recipe A ‘forgotten’ vegetable There are two vegetables that look like asparagus once they’re peeled: salsify and scorzonera or black salsify. Both are winter vegetables, and both are the root of a plant, while asparagus is actually the stalk with the bud. According to Allan Davidson, salsify (Tragopogon porrifolius) is better known…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: parsley, salsify, winter dishes Gepubliceerd op 6 January 2009Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Stuffed quinces

Straight to the recipe A medieval recipe with marrow Triggered by the appearance of a cookbook with beautiful marrow bones on the cover (Bones van Jennifer McLagan), I have adapted two medieval recipes with marrow. The first, for pasties with marrow, is here, where you can also read more about marrow and marrow bones. On this page…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: casserole, marrow, quince Gepubliceerd op 17 October 2006Laatste wijziging 2 December 2019

Cranberry-walnutbread

This is a really festive bread. It’s tasty, and looks merry with the little red berries. I like eating it with blue cheese, but with just butter it already is a treat. This recipe is inspired by the dried cranberries that are suddenly appearing in stores in November. And I love maple syrup, especially in…

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Filed Under: Modern, Side dish, Sweet pastry Tagged With: buttermilk, christmas, cranberry Gepubliceerd op 6 December 2006Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

The original Waldorf Salad

Straight to the recipe An American classic from the nineteenth century Until the beginning of the nineteenth century, cooks and maître d’s who served at the courts of kings and nobles set the tone in culinary developments. But this all changed with the rise of restaurants and -later- hotels. Who today knows the men or…

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Filed Under: 19th century, United States, Lucheon dish, First course, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: apple, stalk celery, walnut Gepubliceerd op 9 December 2010Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Medieval applesauce from England

Greasy! Elsewhere on Coquinaria I have published a recipe for Apple Sauce for Lent. On this page is an English recipe with different versions for meat days and fish days, called apple moys. The Dutch name for apple sauce is appelmoes, so to me (being Dutch) that sounds very familiar. This apple sauce is special…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With meat Tagged With: almond, apple, beef, ginger, saffron Gepubliceerd op 21 December 2006Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Red cabbage the Dutch way

Straight to the recipe A nineteenth-century recipe with apples and apple syrup Originally I had planned a completely different recipe for this month, but then I noticed this old-fashioned recipe for red cabbage in a Dutch cookery book from the middle of the nineteenth century: Betje, de goedkoope keukenmeid. (Betje, the Cheap Cook). It is the…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: apple, red cabbage Gepubliceerd op 24 December 2012Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Cheese pie with pears

Straight to the recipe The recipe for this pie with Brie cheese, pear and egg dates from the middle of the sixteenth century. The source is the Nyeuwen Coockboeck (‘New cookbook’) by the Antwerp physician Gheeraert Vorselman. Although the stuffing is prepared with pears and sugar, this is not a sweet pie. In those days, sugar was…

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Filed Under: Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: cheese, dough, egg, pear, peer Gepubliceerd op 19 October 2017Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Chinese tea-eggs

Decorative and delicate in taste This is a very special way to serve hardboiled eggs. You prepare them in advance, all you need to do is peel them before serving them. The result is beautiful marbled eggs with the subtle taste of spices. Do not be put off by the long boiling time, the eggs…

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Filed Under: Traditional, China, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: anise, egg, tea Gepubliceerd op 16 April 2002Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Garden Salad

Straight to the recipe The kitchen garden en vogue In the Middle Ages vegetables were impopular. They were unhealthy according to the dietetics of those days, and were held in low esteem. The poor ate greens out of economical need, but the rich and powerful preferably gorged themselve on meat and fowl (and fish if it was…

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Filed Under: 17th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: cabbage, cucumber, lettuce Gepubliceerd op 18 June 2011Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Medieval apple fritters

Straight to the recipe In the Netherlands apple fritters are traditional food on New Year’s Eve. I have chosen an English recipe from the fifteenth century to see how it would have tasted in the past. It could just as well have been any other medieval cookery book, as apple fritters were popular food in the Middle Ages. Fritters on…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, Snack, Side dish, Sweet pastry Tagged With: apple, beer, sylvester Gepubliceerd op 29 December 2005Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Elegant mushroom pies

Straight to the recipe A fourteenth-century dish from France When I give a talk on medieval cuisine I always serve a sampling of medieval dishes and spiced wine. The recipe on this page never fails to be a success. The pasties were originally served during the first course of a medieval banquet, but in a…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Savoury pastry, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: cheese, mushrooms Gepubliceerd op 13 November 2010Laatste wijziging 30 November 2019

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