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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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Meat nor fish (vegetarian)

Aubergines for cardinals

Straight to the recipe One year ago I published a Dutch recipe for stuffed aubergines from the 1970s. This historical recipe is also for stuffed aubergines, but older; it was published 450 years ago. The cardinals were the intended public that Bartolomeo Scappi, author of the cookbook that the recipe originates from, cooked for. More…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mint, almond, verjuice, walnut, aubergine, eggplant Gepubliceerd op 27 June 2019Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Cheese biscuits

Straight to the recipe The first recipes for 2019 both concern hot, mulled wine. To accompany these wines, I have added this recipe for cheese biscuits from a French cookery book that we used for our Christmas dinner 2018: La cuisine de monsieur Momo, célibataire. This was originally published in 1930. These biscuits were served…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Snack, Savoury pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: cheese, butter Gepubliceerd op 17 January 2019Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Vegetarian cutlets from World War I

Straight to the recipe Recently a book was published containing the biography of the Dutch chef Iwan Kriens (1871- ca 1957) who had a very succesful career in England. To honour the occasion, this page contains a recipe from The Victory Cookery Book, which he wrote with Mrs C.S. (Dorothy) Peel in 1918. Kriens already had…

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Filed Under: 20th century, England, Main dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: koolraap, kool, knolselderij, rutabaga, celeriac, cabbage Gepubliceerd op 22 December 2018Laatste wijziging 25 November 2019

Stock from winter vegetables

A recipe from a century ago I prepared this vegetarian stock for the vegetable cutlets from Iwan Kriens.  The stock recipe is also from his cookbook, that he wrote with Dorothy Peels in 1918 to provide the British with recipes to use during the food rationing. More can be read at the recipe for vegetable…

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Filed Under: 20th century, England, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: rutabaga, winter fare, celeriac Gepubliceerd op 22 December 2018Laatste wijziging 29 November 2019

Recipes – Diet

The recipes in these indices can be found in four ways: by source (only historical recipes), on their place in the menu, by origin and by food preference. You can also click on a category in the sidebar for a view with pictures and descriptions. Straight to Vegetarian – Pescetarian Vegetarian Aubergines in aubergine sauce. (hist) Barley Soup from…

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Fritters from vine leaves

Grape vines do not just yield grapes. During the summer the leaves can be picked and pickled or used straight away. The best-known use of vine leaves is the Greek dolma, where they are used to wrap around rice. However, in this eighteenth-century recipe the vine leaves themselves are the main ingredient. Just in case…

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Filed Under: 18th century, France, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lime, sugar, deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 7 August 2018Laatste wijziging 8 August 2018

Cucumber Salad

Straight to the recipe A familiar recipe with a twist One of the first modern recipes I published in the Dutch section of this website was a cucumber salad. That was back in 2002. In the following years I kept adding recipes to this page which eventually contained cucumber salads from all over the world. This is the first historical recipe for cucumber…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: onion, cloves, cucumber Gepubliceerd op 24 May 2018Laatste wijziging 30 November 2019

Tulip bulb soup

Straight to the recipe A recipe from the Hunger Winter ’44/’45 For a long time I hesitated whether to publish this recipe. For some Dutch people this dish raises memories to a traumatic period in thier lives. The tulip bulb soup was served during the Amsterdam Symposium to Food in January 2015, which had the theme ‘Food,…

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Filed Under: 20th century, Netherlands, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: onion, bulb, curry Gepubliceerd op 7 April 2018Laatste wijziging 5 December 2019

Scappi’s Macaroni

Straight to the recipe A lot of work, but also a lot of fun The previous historical recipe on Coquinaria consisted of three parts: two recipes for macaroni from World War One, and a page on the production of industrial pressed macaroni. There is also a page with part two of the history of making macaroni and other…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Pasta, First course, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: kaas, milk, kaneel, melk, saffraan, saffron, suiker, cheese, rozenwater Gepubliceerd op 14 October 2017Laatste wijziging 20 April 2019

Macaroni with tomatoes

Straight to the recipe From the Oorlogs-kookboek (‘War-cookbook’) from 1918 This is a Dutch recipe from World War I, also known as the Great War. The peoples of all the combatant nations dealt with hunger, food shortage and rationing (see here). The Netherlands remained neutral … The Netherlands did not participate in the war. At the…

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Filed Under: 20th century, Netherlands, Pasta, First course, Main dish, Casserole, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: kaas, tomaat, tomato, cheese Gepubliceerd op 11 October 2017Laatste wijziging 16 November 2019

Imperial cucumber

Straight to the recipe Great with Roman tuna Pliny the Elder (23 – 79 AD) describes in his encyclopedia Naturalis historia everything that live and exists on Earth. Originally there were 102 volumes, but unfortunately only 37 have survived. These 37 volumes include the ones on animals and plants, so we can still read what Pliny had to…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: honing, honey, groente, komkommer, vegetables, cucumber Gepubliceerd op 26 August 2017Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Eggs with gooseberries

Straight to the recipe An odd but tasty dish Recently I published an article in the periodical De Boekenwereld (The Book World) on Roman Catholic recipes in the eighteenth-century cookery book De Volmaakte Hollandsche Keuken-Meid (The perfect Dutch Kitchen Maid). The indirect cause of that article was a recipe I published on Coquinaria a year ago, a Dish for Lent with prunes…

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Filed Under: 17th century, 18th century, France, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: gooseberry, lent, egg Gepubliceerd op 7 September 2015Laatste wijziging 18 March 2019

Dutch barley soup

Straight to the recipe This barley soup is not French haute cuisine as Carême’s recipe is. It is Dutch and was published in Aaltje, de volmaakte en zuinige keukenmeid (‘Aaltje, the perfect and thrifty cook’), a popular cookery book from the early nineteenth century (1803). In fact it was so popular that in 1887 a teacher of house economics, Odilia Corver, thought to…

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Filed Under: 18th century, 19th century, Netherlands, Soup, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: barley, celery Gepubliceerd op 16 March 2015Laatste wijziging 11 March 2018

Sup with prunes and raisins

Straight to the recipe A dish for Lent This recipe for a ‘sup’ from the middle of the eighteenth century demonstrates the original meaning of the word soep (soup in English). The (toasted) bread at the bottom of the dish soaks in the juices of the dish, and adds filling carbohydrates to it. Often the…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Side dish, Dessert, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), Uncategorized Tagged With: witte wijn, gedroogde pruim, raisins, prune, rozijnen, white wine Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2014Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Nourishing square omelette

Straight to the recipe Medieval stuffed omelette with marrow Some years ago I prepared a menu in the Culinair-historisch Kookmuseum (‘culinary cookery museum’) in Appelscha in the North of the Netherlands, consisting of medieval recipes with marrow from first course to dessert. The menu was called To the bone (Tot op het bot). The recipe below was one of…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, Lucheon dish, First course, Side dish, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: parsley, marrow, egg Gepubliceerd op 17 September 2013Laatste wijziging 17 October 2017

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Stuffed aubergines (16th century)

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