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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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With meat

Chicken with redcurrant sauce

Straight to the recipe A bright summer-sauce from the sixteenth century Blackbirds, thrushes, finches – who doesn’t enjoy hearing these beautifully singing birds? Except of course if you happen to grow currants in your garden. Then suddenly these birds turn into voracious monsters that plunder the bushes before you’ve had the chance to harvest a…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: sugar, currants, egg, chicken Gepubliceerd op 1 July 2010Laatste wijziging 15 February 2022

Real Dutch ‘Slavink’

A very special meatball This meat dish is typically Dutch. I have not been able to find an exact translation of the name slavink, which derives from slagvink, a singing finch. Some Dutch/English dictionaries translate it with kromeski, but since that is dipped in batter and deep-fried, it is not the same dish. If you want to know how…

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Filed Under: Modern, Netherlands, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: pork Gepubliceerd op 17 June 2012Laatste wijziging 10 June 2021

Capon with caper-sauce

Straight to the recipe Prepared ‘à la braise’ A delicious dish from the nineteenth century that is easy to prepare. How delicious exactly, depends on the poultry (a real capon -mouthwatering but expensive-, a good poularde -very tasty as well-, or the watery pale poor industrial chicken -bleh-) and the stock you use (homemade chicken stock or a…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Germany, Netherlands, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: sauce, chicken, capers Gepubliceerd op 2 May 2002Laatste wijziging 10 June 2021

Herb soup with potato dumplings

Straight to the recipe A delicate herald of Spring The text for this recipe is from a cookbook from the nineteenth century, but in fact the recipe is older. In Le cuisinier from Pierre de Lune (1656) there is a ‘potage the santé’ with sorrel, purslane, chervil and herbs, and no doubt there are other comparable recipes. Two…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Germany, Netherlands, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With meat Tagged With: potato, sorrel, tarragon, purslane, parsley, lettuce Gepubliceerd op 27 April 2006Laatste wijziging 10 June 2021

Kale with chestnuts and groats

Straight to the recipe A recipe from the cook of Stadtholder Willem IV The recipe on this page is from Le cuisinier moderne, written by the French cook Vincent La Chapelle (1690 or 1703-1745). He wrote his book first in English, while he was in the service of the fourth Earl of Chesterfield,  Philip Dormer Stanhope. The…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Main dish, Casserole, With meat Tagged With: smoked sausage, groats, kale, chestnut Gepubliceerd op 23 December 2010Laatste wijziging 21 October 2020

Jacobin Sops

Straight to the recipe Take 200 capons … This is a recipe from the delightful cookbook Du fait de cuysine by Maître Chiquart. He was a cook in the service of Amadeus VIII (1383-1451, also known as the last Antipope Felix V from 1439 to 1449), count and first duke of Savoy. Amadeus was a regular guest at the…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Soup, With meat Tagged With: marrow, chicken, cheese Gepubliceerd op 25 January 2008Laatste wijziging 13 October 2020

A visit to the butcher

Recently I joined Carolina Verhoeven, who until 2010 owned the Culinary Historical Museum in Appelscha (in the North of The Netherlands) and is now head of the Culinary Heritage Centre in a visit to the biological butcher shop of Bernard Roosendaal in Drachtstercompagnie. Slagerij Roosendaal was a biological/organic butcher’s. They also had live stock, and functioned…

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Veal Mortadella

Straight to the recipe A fifteenth-century antipasto Modern Mortadella is an Italian sausage originating from Bologna, with pink meat, speckled with little chunks of porkfat, peppercorns and pistacchios and/or olives. The sausage is cooked and lightly smoked. The pinkish hue is caused by saltpetre. Mortadella is imitated a lot throughout the world. The American imitation is called…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: cheese, veal Gepubliceerd op 25 February 2006Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Chicken breast with blackberry sauce

A fifteenth-century recipe from Italy Straight to the recipe The colour of food is important to the way in which we experience it. Food wich is green, golden, white or red is thought of as tasty food. Food wich looks blue is less attractive. Ingredients wich are blue-coloured by nature are very few. All that…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, First course, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: chicken, blackberries Gepubliceerd op 1 July 2002Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Lucanian sausages

Straight to the recipe An ancient Roman delicacy In June 2012 I gave a talk about Roman Food at the Roman Festival in Nijmegen, the Netherlands. This inspired me to try my hand at preparing Lucanicae, one of the recipes for sausages in the Roman cookery book De re coquinaria. I have written more on this book in my notes on other…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: rue, pork, garum Gepubliceerd op 28 June 2012Laatste wijziging 2 February 2020

Medieval stuffed chicken

Straight to the recipe Pullis iuvenis in tempore estivali This summer I was experimenting with roasting whole chickens on the barbecue, so of course I searched for a medieval recipe too. That was easy, in medieval cuisine roast fowl is standard fare for nobles, and I chose a recipe from the Tractatus de modo preparandi et…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: lard, chicken, barbecue Gepubliceerd op 10 August 2009Laatste wijziging 31 December 2019

Real Dutch kroket and bitterbal

The picture shows my daughter and some of her friends at her birthday party many years ago (in 2002). As part of the festivities they were preparing their own meal, the standard birthday fare for a lot of Dutch children in the past: kroketten, French fries and apple sauce, but everything made from scratch. They…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With meat Tagged With: deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 9 January 2006Laatste wijziging 22 December 2019

Medieval bread with fennel and lard

Straight to the recipe Recipes for bread from the distant past are rare. The recipe on this page was inspired by the description in the Nyeuwen cooc boeck (New Cook Book) by Gheeraert Vorselman (edition Cockx-Indestege 1971, see bibliography). Actually this is a description of a kind of flat, unleavened bread, but I added yeast…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: smoked pork, spek, venkel, buckwheat, fennel, boekweit Gepubliceerd op 21 May 2005Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Salade Russe the Russian Way

Straight to the recipe A recipe from 1866 The choice for this recipe is the result of a lecture I gave at the Museum Hermitage in Amsterdam in October 2014. The lecture was complementary to the exhibition Dining with the Czars, which is open for visitors until April 2015. At the end of my presentation all the guests…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Russia, Lucheon dish, First course, With fish (pescetarian), With meat Tagged With: salmon, sauerkraut, veal, beef, beets Gepubliceerd op 30 November 2014Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Russian stock

Meat stock from the nineteenth century Soup is an important part of the Eastern-European kitchen. In the Gift for young housewives, a Russian cookery book that was first published in 1861, there is a recipe for basic bouillon that can be used for all kinds of soup. The recipes for the soups themselves contain variations…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, Russia, Soup, With meat Tagged With: mushrooms, dill, beef Gepubliceerd op 5 March 2010Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

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