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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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16th century

Chicken with redcurrant sauce

Straight to the recipe A bright summer-sauce from the sixteenth century Blackbirds, thrushes, finches – who doesn’t enjoy hearing these beautifully singing birds? Except of course if you happen to grow currants in your garden. Then suddenly these birds turn into voracious monsters that plunder the bushes before you’ve had the chance to harvest a…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: egg, sugar, chicken, currants Gepubliceerd op 1 July 2010Laatste wijziging 15 February 2022

Barley porridge for the ill

Straight to the recipe Who is still eating porridge nowadays? For my grandfather, born in 1904, it was breakfast. Often from oats, but sometimes it was ‘lammetjespap’ (‘lamb porridge’, with milk and flour). We, grandchildren used to breakfast with bread, thought this an exotic habit. But now, I love to start the day with hot…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Netherlands, Breakfast or brunch Tagged With: barley, beer Gepubliceerd op 11 October 2020Laatste wijziging 1 January 2021

Cherry custard from the sixteenth century

This recipe is from The Excellent Cookbook from Carolus Battus, published in 1593. Marleen Willbrands and I (Christianne Muusers) have published an edition of this cookbook, with a facsimile and translation in modern Dutch and introduction on the life and works of the author, sixteenth-century views on haelth and diet, kitchenware and cuisine of the…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Dessert Tagged With: cinnamon Gepubliceerd op 30 December 2020Laatste wijziging 31 December 2020

Parsnip salad

Straight to the recipe A sixteenth-century Dutch recipe This winter salad for parsnips is taken from a Dutch cookbook from the middle of the sixteenth century. It is a translation from a recipe by the Italian humanist Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi) in De honeste voluptate (published in 1474, edition Milham, see bibliography). The Dutch cookbook bears the title Eenen nyeuwen…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: salad, parsnip, coriander Gepubliceerd op 30 December 2003Laatste wijziging 8 October 2020

A brief history of pasta – Part 2

To part 1 of the history of pasta When I published two macaroni recipes from World War I, I also added a page on the recent history of the production of macaronipasta. This page can be considered as the ‘prequel’ of that history section: pasta and macaroni from the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century….

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Filed Under: Technique, Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2017Laatste wijziging 15 February 2020

Medieval bread with fennel and lard

Straight to the recipe Recipes for bread from the distant past are rare. The recipe on this page was inspired by the description in the Nyeuwen cooc boeck (New Cook Book) by Gheeraert Vorselman (edition Cockx-Indestege 1971, see bibliography). Actually this is a description of a kind of flat, unleavened bread, but I added yeast…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: spek, venkel, smoked pork, fennel, buckwheat, boekweit Gepubliceerd op 21 May 2005Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Broccoli in the ‘Opera’

Straight to the recipe The Opera from this recipe has nothing to do with music, and everything with the opus magnus of Italian cook Bartolomeo Scappi, which appeared in print in 1570. Opera means ‘the work’ (in Italian, in Latin it would have been ‘the works’). Nowadays the cookbook is mainly known for its magnificent engravings which illustrate all kinds of…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: knoflook, garlic, broccoli Gepubliceerd op 19 February 2009Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Tourte de fonges

Straight to the recipe Mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau This mushroom pie from 1604 is much more modern than the MĂ©nagier’s from the fourteenth century. No spices and sugar, but herbs to bring the stuffing to taste. The recipe comes from the Ouverture de cuisine, published in 1604 by Lancelot de Casteau. He was, according…

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Filed Under: 16th century, 17th century, Belgium, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Main dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mushrooms, mint, cheese Gepubliceerd op 13 November 2010Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

White tourte, a favourite of Pope Julius III

Straight to the recipe Sweet Italian pastry from the sixteenth century In the Netherlands we are used to abdications. This year, 2013, our queen Beatrix will hand over the throne to her son Willem Alexander, as her mother Juliana did thirty three years ago, and her grandmother Wilhelmina in 1948. But an abdicating pope has not…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Sweet pastry Tagged With: egg, rose water, cream Gepubliceerd op 28 February 2013Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Scappi’s Macaroni

Straight to the recipe A lot of work, but also a lot of fun The previous historical recipe on Coquinaria consisted of three parts: two recipes for macaroni from World War One, and a page on the production of industrial pressed macaroni. There is also a page with part two of the history of making macaroni and other…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Pasta, First course, With meat, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: saffraan, milk, melk, kaneel, saffron, rozenwater, kaas, cheese, suiker Gepubliceerd op 14 October 2017Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Gooseberry Omelette

Straight to the recipe A sixteenth-century Dutch recipe The recipe for omelette (tasey) balances on te edge of what we could name the culinary Middle Ages. It is taken from the Seer excellenten gheexperimenteerden nieuwen Coc-boeck (The very excellent and tried new cookbook) that the physician Karel Baten (Carolus Battus) published as appendix to the second edition of…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Netherlands, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: gooseberry, egg Gepubliceerd op 28 April 2008Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Sauces for broiled fish

Fish played a prominent role in the daily diet throughout the Catholic Middle Ages, because during set periods and days the eating of meat was forbidden. Lent is the most extended and strict period of dietary restrictions, because not only meat, but all animal produce (butter, cheese, eggs) were prohibited foodstuff. On the weekly fast days the…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Savoury pastry, First course, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: gooseberry, capers, butter Gepubliceerd op 30 April 2004Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Stockfish with peas, apple and raisins

Straight to the recipe An ode to dried food A very medieval tasting recipe. It’s an ode to dried food, except the onion all ingredients are dried. This makes it an excellent dish for end of winter. The recipe was meant for fishdays or for Lent. If you prepared it for a fishday you could use butter, but in Lent when…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: lent, raisin, apple Gepubliceerd op 28 December 2011Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Red mustard the Roman way

Straight to the recipe This is not the first recipe for mustard on Coquinaria. The first mustard-recipe, from the fourteenth-century cookbook Le MĂ©nagier de Paris, was published fifteen years ago. Mustard in the Middle Ages and Early Modern Times is comparable to tomato ketchup or soy sauce in some restaurants: there is a bottle on…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Italy, Netherlands, Condiment Tagged With: mustard, rozijnen, raisins, cinnamon, bread Gepubliceerd op 21 February 2018Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Panunto

Crostini with cheese The Italian cuisine is one of my favourites. So, here is another recipe from Italy’s rich culinary past! I have made these small toasts many times, and each time my guests were pleasantly surprised by the simplicity and delicious taste of these crostini. The flavour is unexpected for modern palates: cheese, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon,…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Snack, First course, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: kaas, rozenwater, rose water, brood, cheese, bread Gepubliceerd op 28 January 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

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