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Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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16th century

Tuna with mustard crust

Straight to the recipe A spicy Walloon dish from the sixteenth century Last year I published a recipe for mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau, the sixteenth-century cook for several bishops of the Prince-Bishopric Liège, and I promised to revisit this cookbook soon. Not a lot is known about Lancelot de Casteau. He was born in Mons, lived…

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Filed Under: 16th century, 17th century, Belgium, First course, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: tuna, mustard, coriander Gepubliceerd op 22 August 2011Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Clareit

Straight to the recipe Spiced wine for warm summer evenings and cold winter nights Mulled wine is most often red wine with spices, served warm at Christmas. In the Netherlands we drink Bisschopswijn (‘bishop’s wine’), also a warm, spiced red wine, on Saint Nicholas Eve (5 December), and in Spain you can drink Sangria, cold red wine with…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, Beverage Tagged With: ginger, wine, cinnamon, saffron Gepubliceerd op 15 March 2011Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Stuffed quinces

Straight to the recipe A medieval recipe with marrow Triggered by the appearance of a cookbook with beautiful marrow bones on the cover (Bones van Jennifer McLagan), I have adapted two medieval recipes with marrow. The first, for pasties with marrow, is here, where you can also read more about marrow and marrow bones. On this page…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: marrow, quince, casserole Gepubliceerd op 17 October 2006Laatste wijziging 2 December 2019

Sluberkens

Straight to the recipe Medieval pasties with bone marrow In 2006 I acquired the book Bones by Australian chef de cuisine Jennifer McLagan. The front cover has a splendid picture of roasted marrow bones. This led to my browsing through the editions of medieval cook books on my bookshelves to see whether anything interesting was done with marrow…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, First course, Sweet pastry, With meat Tagged With: marrow, sugar Gepubliceerd op 17 October 2006Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Pickle Herring, the ‘forgotten fish’

It is time to change that! In February 2016 I organized a cookery course for the first time in nearly ten years, with members of the re-enactment group Het Woud der Verwachting (litt: ‘the forest of expectation’, after a historical novel by the Dutch author Hella Haasse). The menu was in concordance with the date of the course:…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, Netherlands, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: herring, lent, salt Gepubliceerd op 16 February 2018Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

‘Split nuns’

Stuffed eggs from early sixteenth century The oldest extant Dutch cookbook in print dates from 1514. It is titled Een notabel boecxken van cokeryen (A noble cookery book). The recipe on this page is taken from this book wich has 175 recipes in all. Stuffed eggs have allways been a popular dish. This particular recipe is called ghecloven nonnen,…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, First course, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: egg, sage, apple Gepubliceerd op 1 March 2002Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Wafers with whipped cream

Medieval Dutch wafers Straight to the recipe Wafers are delicious and easy to make. Actually they are a kind of ‘pressed pancakes’. According to The Oxford Companion to Food wafers are thin and crisp, waffles are thicker and made with yeast. The recipe on this page is for thin wafers. The miniature is from the Velislav Picture Bible, which was created…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, Dessert, Sweet pastry Tagged With: cream, rose water, bread Gepubliceerd op 30 June 2005Laatste wijziging 30 November 2019

Stuffed eggs with mint

Straight to the recipe A medieval first course from Germany I am lucky with my neighbours. At the moment, I live next door to the core of the musical group EnsembLeChatNoir, who give beautiful – and sometimes multimedia – concerts. At my previous house there was also an artistic neighbour, a cermist. She is from Germany, and…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Germany, Lucheon dish, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: egg, honey, mint Gepubliceerd op 16 July 2011Laatste wijziging 27 November 2019

Mock eggs for Lent

Just for fun Straight to the recipe This an extra recipe with the Medieval coloured easter Eggs. During Lent, between carnival and Easter, no eggs were eaten. But sometimes eggs did appear on the table, as a joke. These were mock eggs, made with pike roe (also eggs, but from fish, so these were permitted) or…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, First course, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: vastentijd, lent, saffraan, saffron, almond, amandel Gepubliceerd op 29 February 2012Laatste wijziging 25 November 2019

Tortelli in brodo

Straight to the recipe An Italian recipe from the sixteenth century This is a real classic from the Italian kitchen: stuffed pasta in broth. The sixteenth century recipe prescribes the use of meat broth. If you replace this by a good vegetable broth, the result is a very tasty vegetarian dish. It is best not…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Pasta, First course, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: cinnamon, beet greens, basil Gepubliceerd op 12 July 2004Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Sixteenth-century pasta dough

Straight to the recipe Two recipes from the Opera of Bartolomeo Scappi Let’s all say it once more, loud and clear: “Marco Polo did NOT bring pasta to Italy from China!” Dried pasta was already eaten in Europe before the good man returned from his travels in 1295. According to some, pasta was already known to the…

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Filed Under: Technique, 16th century, Italy, Pasta Tagged With: dough, pasta Gepubliceerd op 3 March 2011Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Purée from broad beans

Straight to the recipe This recipe for broad beans is taken from the sixteenth-century cookbook Opera by Italian Bartolomeo Scappi (see bibliography). more on Scappi and his book: Tortelli in brodo and Broccoli in de Opera). In the Libro Terzo (Book III, with recipes for Lent and fish days) of this cookbook is the following recipe for minestre (a first course, thick soup or pottage)…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: mint, saffron, broad beans Gepubliceerd op 12 June 2010Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Aubergines for cardinals

Straight to the recipe One year ago I published a Dutch recipe for stuffed aubergines from the 1970s. This historical recipe is also for stuffed aubergines, but older; it was published 450 years ago. The cardinals were the intended public that Bartolomeo Scappi, author of the cookbook that the recipe originates from, cooked for. More…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: eggplant, verjuice, mint, almond Gepubliceerd op 27 June 2019Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Verjuice

Wine nor vinegar Literally verjuice means ‘green juice’ (from French ‘jus vert’). It is the juice from unripe grapes, unripe apples, sorrel, goose berries, whatever, as long as it is sour. It is a common ingredient in medieval recipes, and even in later recipes up to the seventeenth century. Then it was no longer in…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Netherlands, Condiment Tagged With: grape, medlar Gepubliceerd op 16 September 2006Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

Fake Fish

Straight to the recipe Medieval apple pie for Lent Lent – The fishy season In the Middle Ages the catholic church prescribed what was on the daily menu. Each week counted at least one day, and more often three or even four days (depending on where and when in medieval Europe) during which no meat…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, Side dish, Sweet pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: vastentijd, lent, saffraan, saffron, suiker, rijst, almond, amandel, appel Gepubliceerd op 24 February 2003Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

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