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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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Snack

Medieval Easter Eggs

Straight to the recipe Playing with colours During Lent, which starts on Ash Wednesday and ends on Holy Saturday before Easter, eggs were banned from the table. But as the days started to grow longer again after the winter solstice, hens began laying their eggs again! So you can bet that on Easter Sunday, when…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Germany, Lucheon dish, Snack, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: reuzel, lard, pasen, parsley, saffron, ei, egg, easter Gepubliceerd op 29 February 2012Laatste wijziging 23 December 2020

Pickled anchovies

For the third course of the menu with adapted recipes in the edition of Het excellente kookboek (The Excellent Cookbook) we decided to put some anchovies on the table as well. There is a still life by the German painter Sebastian Stoskopff (1597-1657) with a dish filled with anchovies as centre piece.Ā  It looks like…

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Filed Under: Technique, 17th century, Snack, Condiment, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: anchovy, salt Gepubliceerd op 20 December 2020Laatste wijziging 21 December 2020

Nineteenth-century Anchovy Toast

The recipe on this page was my Christmas card from 2018. Christine Charlotte Riedl The illustration above is from the Lindauer Kochbuch that contains the recipe for anchovy toast. This is a German cookery book that has been in print from the middle of the nineteenth century to 1925. The full title is the Lindauer…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Germany, Snack, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: capers, anchovy Gepubliceerd op 22 October 2020Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Veal Mortadella

Straight to the recipe A fifteenth-century antipasto Modern Mortadella is anĀ ItalianĀ sausage originating from Bologna, with pink meat, speckled with little chunks of porkfat, peppercorns and pistacchios and/or olives. The sausage is cooked and lightly smoked. The pinkish hue is caused by saltpetre. Mortadella is imitated a lot throughout the world. The American imitation is called…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: veal, cheese Gepubliceerd op 25 February 2006Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Lucanian sausages

Straight to the recipe An ancient Roman delicacy In June 2012 I gave a talk aboutĀ RomanĀ Food at theĀ Roman FestivalĀ in Nijmegen, the Netherlands. This inspired me to try my hand at preparing Lucanicae, one of the recipes forĀ sausagesĀ in the Roman cookery bookĀ De re coquinaria. I have written more on this book in my notes on other…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: pork, garum, rue Gepubliceerd op 28 June 2012Laatste wijziging 2 February 2020

Real Dutch kroket and bitterbal

The picture shows my daughter and some of her friends at her birthday party many years ago (in 2002). As part of the festivities they were preparing their own meal, the standard birthday fare for a lot of Dutch children in the past: kroketten, French fries and apple sauce, but everything made from scratch. They…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With meat Tagged With: deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 9 January 2006Laatste wijziging 22 December 2019

Cheese biscuits

Straight to the recipe The first recipes for 2019 both concern hot, mulled wine. To accompany these wines, I have added this recipe for cheese biscuits from a French cookery book that we used for our Christmas dinner 2018: La cuisine de monsieur Momo, cĆ©libataire. This was originally published in 1930. These biscuits were served…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, France, Snack, Savoury pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: butter, cheese Gepubliceerd op 17 January 2019Laatste wijziging 15 December 2019

Traditional Dutch herring salad

The Dutch are famous for eating ‘Dutch new’ or ‘matjes’ herring, which is essentially still raw. Tourists stare with fascinated abhorrence at those strange people who let the fish slide down their throats with extatic expressions on their face. But why would this be any less delicious than eating Japanese sashimi? And the herring is…

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Filed Under: Traditional, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: herring, potato, sylvester, salad Gepubliceerd op 28 December 2017Laatste wijziging 13 December 2019

Medieval Arab Candy

Straight to the recipe A thirteenth-century recipe Nearly everyone agrees that sugar is poison. However, it is only considereda poison because it is used in excess. We all love sweet dishes, and the food industry uses it as a flavour enhancer as well. But a long time ago sugar was actually welcomed by physicians and…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Arabian, Snack Tagged With: rose water, almond, sugar Gepubliceerd op 24 August 2017Laatste wijziging 10 December 2019

Pasties with sweetbread

Straight to the recipe What Johann Sebastian Bach might have eaten in Leipzig The connection between the pasties and the famous GermanĀ baroqueĀ composer Johann SebastianĀ BachĀ (1685-1750) is tenuous; a few years after Susanna Eger had published her cookbook (in 1706),Ā J.S. BachĀ accepted the situation of cantor in the Lutheran Thomaskirche inĀ Leipzig. He wouldĀ work there from 1723 until his…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Germany, Snack, Savoury pastry, First course, With meat Tagged With: parsley, sweetbread, chicken Gepubliceerd op 1 November 2012Laatste wijziging 10 December 2019

Chicken Salad

What to do with soup chicken What to do with all the tasty chicken meat from the boiling hen when you have madeĀ chicken stock? This recipe for chicken salad is better with meat from a boiling hen than with a pale chicken breast. It tastes great on toast or on bread, or it can be…

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Filed Under: Modern, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, With meat Tagged With: raisins, mayonnaise, salad Gepubliceerd op 8 January 2006Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Arabian meatballs

Straight to the recipe Tasty tidbits The recipe on this page was prepared, together with Arabian pasties,Ā clareit and medieval wafers, for the opening of an exhibition in the Utrecht University Museum on the medieval text Sidrac. The focus was on the Middle Dutch translation, Sidrac. There is also a late-medieval translation of this text, Sidrak…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Arabian, Snack, Side dish, With meat Tagged With: korianderblad, lamb meat, lamsvlees, rue, wijnruit, almond, amandel Gepubliceerd op 27 August 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Panunto

Crostini with cheese TheĀ ItalianĀ cuisine is one of my favourites. So, here is another recipe from Italy’s rich culinary past!Ā I have made these small toasts many times, and each time my guests were pleasantly surprised by the simplicity and delicious taste of theseĀ crostini. The flavour is unexpected for modern palates: cheese, sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon,…

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Filed Under: 16th century, Italy, Snack, First course, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: rose water, kaas, rozenwater, bread, brood, cheese Gepubliceerd op 28 January 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Quince jelly

In the Dutch language quinces are called quince apple or or quince pear. According to the sixteenth-century recipe for quince pie, quince apples must cooked and quince pears baked. I am not sure why, the form of a quince makes no difference in the preparation. The recipe on this page is for quince jelly from…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Snack Tagged With: quince, sugar Gepubliceerd op 5 February 2018Laatste wijziging 2 December 2019

Chinese tea-eggs

Decorative and delicate in taste This is a very special way to serve hardboiled eggs. You prepare them in advance, all you need to do is peel them before serving them. The result is beautiful marbled eggs with the subtle taste of spices. Do not be put off by the long boiling time, the eggs…

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Filed Under: Traditional, China, Lucheon dish, Snack, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: tea, anise, egg Gepubliceerd op 16 April 2002Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

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Het excellente kookboek

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