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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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    • Stock, the kitchen spirit
    • Dough – The basics
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Technique

Dough for savoury pastry

The recipes on this page are meant for 500 gram flour or meal, which will make between 750 and 1000 gram dough, depending on the recipe and the desired firmness of the dough. Index of recipes with dough on Coquinaria Puff pastry with egg For about 2 pounds of dough. 500 gr (4ÂĽ cup) flour…

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Filed Under: Technique, Middle Ages, Traditional, Savoury pastry Tagged With: lard, egg, butter Gepubliceerd op 30 January 2005Laatste wijziging 11 December 2019

Fumet of lobster, crayfrish or shrimp

Bones are used for good meat stock, fish bones for fish stock, and to make crustacean stock, you use the carapaces, shells, claws and head of lobster, crayfish or shrimp. So, don’t you throw these away! There are some links in the recipe to the tips & tricks of broth making with descriptions of how to strain,…

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Filed Under: Technique, Soup, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: kreeft, lobster, shrimp, rivierkreeft, crayfish Gepubliceerd op 24 February 2008Laatste wijziging 10 December 2019

Escoffier’s Salsify Fritters

Straight to the recipe The picture shows the garden terrace of the Ritz Hotel in Paris, which openend its doors in 1898. This is one of the legendary hotels that were run by CĂ©sar Ritz (1850-1918) and Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935). I have spend many hours searching for a nineteenth-century painting with black salsify, but alas,…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, France, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With meat Tagged With: salsify, deep-frying Gepubliceerd op 6 January 2009Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

A brief pasta history – Part 1

To part two of the history of pasta It has happened to me before. I start working on a historical recipe that does not seem to be too complicated. But then the questions arise, one after the other … Long macaroni When I was working on two recipes with macaroni  from the First World War…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 13 October 2017Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Roman fish sauce

Garum or liquamen Garum is one of the basic ingredients in the cuisine of Roman antiquity. It is a fish sauce that was used to salt dishes. One can’t simply use kitchen salt in recipes, because instead of extracting moisture (which is what salt does), garum adds moisture to a dish. When preparing an authentic Roman dish, this sauce is…

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Filed Under: Technique, Roman, Italy, Condiment Tagged With: mint, sardine, salt Gepubliceerd op 24 April 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Sauce espagnole

Straigh to the recipe The first new historical recipe of 2018 concerns small chicken pies from nineteenth-century French cook CarĂŞme. The stuffing is seasoned with one spoonful of sauce espagnole. That will be easy, I thought, just look up what CarĂŞme has to say about this sauce and prepare it. But things were slightly more…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, 20th century, France, Condiment, With meat Tagged With: sauce, bayleaf, thyme Gepubliceerd op 20 January 2018Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

CarĂŞme on puff pastry and shortcrust

On this page is a short overview of what the French cook Antonin CarĂŞme (1784-1833) had to say about puff pastry and shortcrust in his book Le patissier royal (1815). He bakes his soufflĂ©s in a pie crust, that was the reason that I looked into this matter. Puff pastry There is quite a difference in making…

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Filed Under: Technique, 19th century, France Tagged With: deeg, dough Gepubliceerd op 8 November 2005Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Basic recipe – Marzipan

Page with recipes for Dutch Santa Claus Marzipan is traditionally eaten on Santa Claus’ day and in the weeks leading up to it, as children put their shoes near the chimney (or near the central heating radiator) at night. They will find a small present or candy in their shoe the next day. The Christmas…

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Filed Under: Technique Tagged With: sinterklaas, almond Gepubliceerd op 5 December 2019Laatste wijziging 5 December 2019

La Varenne’s meat stock

This is the first ‘historical’ recipe for stock on my site. This meat stock is taken from Le cuisinier françois by François Pierre la Varenne, from 1651. It is the opening recipe in the book, a real basic recipe. The stock is made with a lot of meat, and all kinds of it: beef, mutton, fowl. From…

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Filed Under: Technique, 17th century, France, Soup, With meat Tagged With: lamb meat, chicken, beef Gepubliceerd op 27 March 2007Laatste wijziging 2 December 2019

Making cheese – Introduction

Milking, Gouda Cheese, Herb Cheese, Fresh Cheese A great hobby On these pages I describe how we learned to make delicious fresh goat’s cheese, and Gouda-type cheese made of the milk of cows and goats in France during the summer of 2002. The links to the related pages are top right of this page. The cheese farm Villenue…

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No cheese without milk

Introduction, Gouda Cheese, Herb Cheese, Fresh Cheese These pictures were taken in 2002 op the organic farm Villenue near Montluçon in France. The farm had mainly milking goats, and a few miling cows. There are two series. On top are pictures of the milking of cows, below the pictures of the milking of goats. Click on the navigation…

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Making cheese – Gouda cheese

Introduction, Milking, Herb Cheese, Fresh Cheese The famous Dutch cheese Cheese of the Gouda type is a firm, pressed cheese, cured in brine and matured for at least six weeks. The pictures below  show how Gouda cheese can made at home. Mind you, this is not a course in cheese making, just an impression. If you like this page, please…

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Making cheese – Fresh cheese

Introduction, Milking, Gouda Cheese, Herb Cheese Easy to make, and ready to eat the very next day! The pictures below  show how fresh cheese can made at home. Mind you, this is not a course in cheese making, just an impression. If you like this page, please link to it, do not copy without asking permission first. If you…

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Making cheese – Herb cheese

Introduction, Milking, Gouda Cheese, Fresh Cheese Gouda cheese with herbs The pictures below  show how Gouda cheese with herbs can made at home. Mind you, this is not a course in cheese making, just an impression. If you like this page, please link to it, do not copy without asking permission first. If you have an interesting site or…

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Fresh noodles from Japan and China

People always think first of Italian pasta at the mention of fresh pasta. But many cuisines have a tradition of fresh noodles, sometimes with different ingredients or cookingtechniques. On this page you can learn to make your own fresh Chinese and Japanese noodles. The quantities in the recipes are but guidelines: eggs may vary in size, flour…

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Filed Under: Technique, China, Japan, Pasta Tagged With: tarwe, buckwheat, boekweit, wheat Gepubliceerd op 24 September 2010Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

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