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Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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With fish (pescetarian)

Tuna with mustard crust

Straight to the recipe A spicy Walloon dish from the sixteenth century Last year I published a recipe for mushroom pie from Lancelot de Casteau, the sixteenth-century cook for several bishops of the Prince-Bishopric Liège, and I promised to revisit this cookbook soon. Not a lot is known about Lancelot de Casteau. He was born in Mons, lived…

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Filed Under: 16th century, 17th century, Belgium, First course, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: tuna, coriander, mustard Gepubliceerd op 22 August 2011Laatste wijziging 9 December 2019

Anchovy sauce

This recipe is from a manuscript that is kept in the Royal Library in The hague. It dates from around 1780. A transcription is in progress. The original recipe *wel vervarschd (well rinsed) – desalted by putting in water which has been changed regularly Modern adaptation of the recipe Butter sauce with anchovies can accompany…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Condiment, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: anchovy, butter Gepubliceerd op 24 April 2018Laatste wijziging 8 December 2019

Cook’s Salmon Salad

Straight to the recipe Simply delicious A delicious recipe amalgamated from two nineteenth century cookbooks written by ‘kitchen maids’. In eighteenth century England the housewife or her housekeeper ruled the cookbooks, in The Netherlands it was the keukenmeid (litt. kitchen maid), which is not quite the same as the housekeeper but more a female cook. However, I will use that in the translations…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Netherlands, Lucheon dish, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: mayonnaise, salad, salmon Gepubliceerd op 29 June 2009Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Pickle Herring, the ‘forgotten fish’

It is time to change that! In February 2016 I organized a cookery course for the first time in nearly ten years, with members of the re-enactment group Het Woud der Verwachting (litt: ‘the forest of expectation’, after a historical novel by the Dutch author Hella Haasse). The menu was in concordance with the date of the course:…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, Netherlands, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: herring, lent, salt Gepubliceerd op 16 February 2018Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Fish Fumet

A good beef stock is made with meat bones, a good fish fumet (concentrated stock) needs fish bones. Ask the fishmonger to collect the bones when he is filleting, you’ll need about one kilogram. The bones have to be from lean fish like sole, halibut, plaice, flounder, etc., no bones from salmon or maquerel. By…

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Filed Under: Technique, Modern, Soup, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: fish Gepubliceerd op 7 January 2006Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Cooking with clay

Wrapped fish, baked on a coal fire Archaeologists and archaeobotanists are experts in reconstructing cooking methods and ingredients that were possibly used during Prehistoric times. However, a ‘prehistoric cuisine’ does not exist. What was on the menu depended on the millennium, the time of the year, the location and available resources, and perhaps also on…

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Filed Under: Prehistory, First course, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: fish, barbecue Gepubliceerd op 21 August 2018Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Pyke in Galentyne

Straight to the recipe  A medieval feast for nose, eyes and palate Sauces are an important part of the medieval kitchen. Not just because they taste good, but it was the best way to prepare the main ingredient of a dish in such a way that it was as healthy as possible according to the…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: pike, vinegar, cloves, cinnamon Gepubliceerd op 29 October 2009Laatste wijziging 1 December 2019

Medieval blancmange with fish

Straight to the recipe Dainty and delicate This recipe, the oldest redaction of which is dating from the end of the fourteenth century, is a typical dish for a fish day, or even Lent. Many people think of a medieval meal as a table laden with meat and fowl, but the truth is that on…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, First course, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: lent, rice, crayfish Gepubliceerd op 26 February 2008Laatste wijziging 30 November 2019

Fish with ‘sauce ramolade’

Straight to the recipe A light dish from the court of Louis XIV   Sometimes food from the past seems very modern, such as this elegant and simple fish dish from the seventeenth century. The source of the recipe is Le cuisinier royal et bourgeois by François Massialot. More on the author and his book…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Lucheon dish, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: chives, anchovy, capers Gepubliceerd op 21 January 2017Laatste wijziging 29 November 2019

Fish curry from Mauritius

Straight to the recipe “You ate all the dodo’s!” I’ve heard that remark several times in the summer of 2006 during my vacation on Mauritius. It was said with a smile, by friendly people, but still … Yes, I am Dutch, and “we” Dutch people are responsible for the extinction of that peculiar flightless bird…

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Filed Under: 19th century, 20th century, Mauritius, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: fish, garlic, geelwortel, gember, knoflook, vis, chilli pepper, rode peper Gepubliceerd op 24 August 2006Laatste wijziging 29 November 2019

A medieval evergreen

Very, very healthy! In Asterix in Britain, the heroes Asterix and Obelix’ first meal on British soil is eaten in a pub called ‘The Jolly Boar’. Obelix is deeply disappointed, his favourite boar has not been roasted, but boiled. To make matters even worse, it is served in a green mint sauce. Boring. Had Obelix lived fourteen centuries later,…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Netherlands, First course, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: parsley, fish Gepubliceerd op 18 April 2014Laatste wijziging 27 November 2019

Polish cold soup from a Russian cookbook

Very refreshing! This is a delicious dish when it is hot. It is a soup, a chlodnik or ‘cold thingy’ according to the cookbook A gift to young housewives (Пода́рок молоды́м хозя́йкам, first published in 1861) from Jelena Molochovjets. According to her, this soup is Polish in origin. The Polish wikipedia defines Chłodnik as any cold soup; the Spanish gazpacho is also a…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Russia, Soup, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: heat wave, dill, egg Gepubliceerd op 16 August 2017Laatste wijziging 25 November 2019

Hot-smoked cod with mustard-cilantro sauce

A Chinese recipe Elsewhere on Coquinaria is the recipe for hot-smoked salmon. Here is another recipe for hot-smoked fish, but this time from China. The fifference with ‘Western’ smoking is the smoke-medium: not woodchips or sawdust, but tea leaves with rice, sugar and spices. The fish is not cured but marinated and steamed before smoking. When…

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Filed Under: Technique, Modern, China, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: smoking, cilantro, cod Gepubliceerd op 7 March 2005Laatste wijziging 25 November 2019

Salmon in red wine-sauce

Straight to the recipe A recipe from the French Golden Age The first really new cookbooks since the Middle Ages did not appear before 1650. In France these cookbooks were the first onset to the development of the classical French “haute cuisine”. Up til the middle of the seventeenth century medieval classics Le Ménagier de Paris and Le…

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Filed Under: 17th century, France, Main dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: zalm, red wine, saus, sauce, rode wijn, salmon Gepubliceerd op 17 February 2002Laatste wijziging 25 November 2019

Dashi

Recipes for Japanese stock Dashi is the basic stock of Japanese cuisine. It can be prepared in several manners, but mostly dashi is made with seaweed and dried bonito. Below there are several recipes for making dashi. When preparing noodlse, use Japanese noodle bouillon. The two main variations of dashi are ichiban dashi and niban…

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Filed Under: Technique, Traditional, Japan, Soup, Meat nor fish (vegetarian), With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: fish, seaweed Gepubliceerd op 10 January 2006Laatste wijziging 24 November 2019

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