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Coquinaria

Culinaire geschiedenis, onderzoek en praktijk

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ORIGIN

Nineteenth-century Anchovy Toast

The recipe on this page was my Christmas card from 2018. Christine Charlotte Riedl The illustration above is from the Lindauer Kochbuch that contains the recipe for anchovy toast. This is a German cookery book that has been in print from the middle of the nineteenth century to 1925. The full title is the Lindauer…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Germany, Snack, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: capers, anchovy Gepubliceerd op 22 October 2020Laatste wijziging 22 October 2020

Kale with chestnuts and groats

Straight to the recipe A recipe from the cook of Stadtholder Willem IV The recipe on this page is from Le cuisinier moderne, written by the French cook Vincent La Chapelle (1690 or 1703-1745). He wrote his book first in English, while he was in the service of the fourth Earl of Chesterfield,  Philip Dormer Stanhope. The…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Main dish, Casserole, With meat Tagged With: groats, kale, smoked sausage, chestnut Gepubliceerd op 23 December 2010Laatste wijziging 21 October 2020

Roman chestnuts

Straight to the recipe High in carbohydrates, low-fat, gluten free Edible chestnuts were probably introduced in the Netherlands by the Romans. Dutch summers do not always yield ripe chestnuts, but usually enough chestnuts can be gathered under a tame chestnut tree for a nice meal. The picture on the right shows two ancient tame chestnut trees in the…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Side dish, With fish (pescetarian) Tagged With: honey, kastanje, rue, chestnut, wijnruit Gepubliceerd op 29 February 2016Laatste wijziging 21 October 2020

Jacobin Sops

Straight to the recipe Take 200 capons … This is a recipe from the delightful cookbook Du fait de cuysine by MaĂ®tre Chiquart. He was a cook in the service of Amadeus VIII (1383-1451, also known as the last Antipope Felix V from 1439 to 1449), count and first duke of Savoy. Amadeus was a regular guest at the…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Soup, With meat Tagged With: marrow, cheese, chicken Gepubliceerd op 25 January 2008Laatste wijziging 13 October 2020

Plum Pie and Pieter Cornelisz Hooft

Straight to the recipe A delicious Dutch pie from the seventeenth century Straight to the recipe Summer is plum season. In Dutch the expression tot in de pruimentijd  (litterally ‘see you in the plum season’) has a special meaning: ‘Until we meet again, whenever that may be’. This expression is commonly ascribed to Pieter Cornelisz. Hooft (1581-1647), but there are…

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Filed Under: 17th century, Netherlands, Dessert, Sweet pastry Tagged With: plums, fruit Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2014Laatste wijziging 13 October 2020

Parsnip salad

Straight to the recipe A sixteenth-century Dutch recipe This winter salad for parsnips is taken from a Dutch cookbook from the middle of the sixteenth century. It is a translation from a recipe by the Italian humanist Platina (Bartolomeo Sacchi) in De honeste voluptate (published in 1474, edition Milham, see bibliography). The Dutch cookbook bears the title Eenen nyeuwen…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, 16th century, Belgium, Netherlands, First course, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: parsnip, coriander, salad Gepubliceerd op 30 December 2003Laatste wijziging 8 October 2020

Mille-feuille the Dutch way

Straight to the recipe Tompouce is the Dutch version of mille-feuille. It is popular throughout the year, but on some days, it is almost traditional to eat this pastry. And on those days, the tompouce is not decorated with the customary pink glaze, but with orange glaze to emphasize the connection to our royal family…

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Filed Under: 19th century, Traditional, Netherlands, Sweet pastry, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: egg, dough Gepubliceerd op 8 May 2020Laatste wijziging 8 May 2020

Excellent almond cookies

Straight to the recipe In the Middle Ages, cookies were served during the banquet or the final course of a festive meal, along with fresh or preserved fruit and spiced wine. During the sixteenth century the Italians even started their meals with sweet cookies, according to the menus provided by Bartolomeo Scappi (Opera, 1570, see…

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Filed Under: 18th century, Netherlands, Sweet pastry Tagged With: almond, anise, coriander Gepubliceerd op 3 May 2020Laatste wijziging 3 May 2020

Veal Mortadella

Straight to the recipe A fifteenth-century antipasto Modern Mortadella is an Italian sausage originating from Bologna, with pink meat, speckled with little chunks of porkfat, peppercorns and pistacchios and/or olives. The sausage is cooked and lightly smoked. The pinkish hue is caused by saltpetre. Mortadella is imitated a lot throughout the world. The American imitation is called…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: veal, cheese Gepubliceerd op 25 February 2006Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Chicken breast with blackberry sauce

A fifteenth-century recipe from Italy Straight to the recipe The colour of food is important to the way in which we experience it. Food wich is green, golden, white or red is thought of as tasty food. Food wich looks blue is less attractive. Ingredients wich are blue-coloured by nature are very few. All that…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, First course, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: blackberries, chicken Gepubliceerd op 1 July 2002Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Zabaglione

Straight to the recipe Unchanged through the centuries There was no country called Italy in the Middle Ages. There was a peninsula, divided into small counties and duchies, and the Vatican of course. But the Italian (regional) kitchen had already those characteristics it still has today. Elsewhere on this site you’ll find recipes for sixteenth-century…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, Italy, Dessert Tagged With: egg, cinnamon, strawberries Gepubliceerd op 9 January 2010Laatste wijziging 23 February 2020

Medieval onion stew

Straight to the recipe The recipe for this nourishing dish has survived in several medieval English manuscripts. Although it is not stated explicitly, the dish is typically meant for Lent. It contains olive oil and almond milk, and lacks any meat or dairy products. The main ingredient are onions. In the picture a man and…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, England, Main dish, Side dish, Meat nor fish (vegetarian) Tagged With: lent, onion, almond Gepubliceerd op 21 February 2020Laatste wijziging 21 February 2020

A brief history of pasta – Part 2

To part 1 of the history of pasta When I published two macaroni recipes from World War I, I also added a page on the recent history of the production of macaronipasta. This page can be considered as the ‘prequel’ of that history section: pasta and macaroni from the Middle Ages to the eighteenth century….

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Filed Under: Technique, Middle Ages, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Italy, Pasta Gepubliceerd op 15 October 2017Laatste wijziging 15 February 2020

Lucanian sausages

Straight to the recipe An ancient Roman delicacy In June 2012 I gave a talk about Roman Food at the Roman Festival in Nijmegen, the Netherlands. This inspired me to try my hand at preparing Lucanicae, one of the recipes for sausages in the Roman cookery book De re coquinaria. I have written more on this book in my notes on other…

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Filed Under: Roman, Italy, Snack, With meat Tagged With: garum, rue, pork Gepubliceerd op 28 June 2012Laatste wijziging 2 February 2020

Medieval stuffed chicken

Straight to the recipe Pullis iuvenis in tempore estivali This summer I was experimenting with roasting whole chickens on the barbecue, so of course I searched for a medieval recipe too. That was easy, in medieval cuisine roast fowl is standard fare for nobles, and I chose a recipe from the Tractatus de modo preparandi et…

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Filed Under: Middle Ages, France, Main dish, With meat Tagged With: lard, barbecue, chicken Gepubliceerd op 10 August 2009Laatste wijziging 31 December 2019

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